As the island prepares for the 80th anniversary of its liberation from the German occupying forces, Mark Bibby Jackson takes the short ferry from Poole on his short break to Guernsey Channel Islands on a short break.
Space. If I had to choose one word to encapsulate the amazing appeal of Guernsey to travellers it would be space.
Wondering along the wide expanse of sand on the open beaches, clambering along rocks, I am amazed by the wildness of nature and its stunning beauty. I am transported back in time to the holidays of my youth.
Not that I had ever visited Guernsey before – the Isle of Wight was the only channel island I visited, but my short break to Guernsey reminded me of those idyllic times, preserved in aspic forever by selective nostalgia.
Taking the Ferry to Guernsey
The last day of the Easter holidays we queue up with all the locals – you can spot them by their black numeric number plates – for the ferry to Guernsey from Poole.
It seems as if the whole of the Guernsey population of around 65,000 is returning home with us. Despite this load, the Britannia ferry is comfortable and we soon enjoy the spectacular view as we pass Brownsea Castle, before the Purbeck Heritage Coast emerges to our right. It is beautiful in the sun. Fortunately the sun is to stay with us throughout the trip, and we are blessed with the most excellent weather in Guernsey itself.
Coastal Drive in Guernsey
That evening we dine at the Puffin and Oyster which is next to our Peninsula hotel. Here I learn that locals call the north of the island the bottom, and the south the top – apparently the southern part of the island is higher.
On the short drive from St Peter Port to our hotel to the north of the island, I’d been struck by how narrow the roads were. Locals mount the pavements to provide extra room. The following morning, we set off to explore the island.
My island tour has only lasted a few minutes before I made the first of my numerous stops.
Rousse Tower
Guernsey is littered with historical treasures.
Right next to the hotel is Rousse Tower, one of 15 loophole towers positioned around the island between 1778 and 1779.
The fear was that the French might seize the islands during the American War of Independence; the liberal French taking the side of the Americans. Apparently, the towers were fabricated off site and transported to their location. These are free to enter, and have useful information boards. Parking is also free like it is across Guernsey so long as you have a parking clock.
I love the smell of the sea and the gentle breeze down by the tower. The air is so fresh and invigorating. I walk along the small beach squeezed between the rugged rocks which slide into the sea. A small fishing boat chugs its way into the waters.
Grandes Roques and L’Eree Battery
My next stop on my drive along the Guernsey coast is at Grandes Roques battery.
I walk along the rocks to the battery. The sea is blue and the waves crash onto the rocks. I retrace myself onto the most glorious beach. It is here I realise why I am enjoying Guernsey so much – untamed nature and space – the perfect combo.
My third stop is at L’Eree Battery, built at the end of 18th century when the threat of invasion from revolutionary France was at its peak. Apparently, there were 60 coastal batteries scattered around the island at one time.
Adjacent to it was Fort Saumarez, one of the Martello towers built on Guernsey. During the occupation, the Germans built a concrete naval direction finding tower which now stands in stark contrast to the nature around it.
From L’Eree Battery you can also see the tiny islet of Lihou, which is accessible at low tide. The area all around is part of a marine reserve and wetland site.
Fort Grey Shipwreck Museum
Fort Grey was another Martello tower built in 1803 on ruins of Chateau de Rocquaine, named after a governor of Guernsey.
In 1976, it was turned into a shipwreck museum. Unsurprisingly, considering the rocky nature of the coastline, there were many shipwrecks off Guernsey, before the advent of geopositioing on the ships.
Keith Pengelley works as a volunteer at the museum. According to him, the most famous wreck was of the MV Prosperity which came to ground in 1974, with some 18 people losing their lives.
Across the road are the ruins of a Roman ship that dates back to the third century. It sunk during a fire in St Peter Port Guernsey, and was discovered 40 or so years ago.
Fort Peziers
In addition to working at the museum, Keith also does an excellent series of podcasts on the German occupation of the island with Nick Le Huray, as well as Guernsey walking tours. Following his advice after an excellent lunch at Coast restaurant, part of the Imperial hotel, I set off on a short coastal walk to Fort Peziers. There has been a coastal defence here to protect southern end of Rocquaine Bay since 1680, although the current structure dates back to the 19th century.
Returning our drive along the Guernsey coast, I drive to the Pleinmont Observation Tower, which is the second German naval direction finding tower on the west coast of the island, and is open on Sundays and Wednesdays from 2pm to 4pm. It being a Tuesday I can only reflect on how stark it looks set in such blissful nature.
Guernsey is a small island, so we are able to circumnavigate it easily, driving across the southern top of the island, passing Moulin Huet Bay which inspired Renoir, to the east coast and the capital St Peter Port.
After all the glorious space on the western coast, I find the capital a bit congested – and this coming from a person brought up in London.
Liberation Day
The story of one of the darkest periods of history on the island is told in the German Occupation Museum. We take advantage of a break in the sun to head there the following morning.
The Germans occupied Guernsey on 30 June 1940, as it did the rest of the Channel Islands. In total some 17,000 out of the population of 42,000 islanders were evacuated to the UK prior to the invasion. When they returned the children spoke English rather than the local Guernsey French – Guerneseyese – which derives from Norman French. Roy Burton, who turns 95 this year, remained on the island for the duration. I meet him at the museum.
Roy tells me how life carried on pretty much as usual when the Germans took occupation, although school was cancelled for three months. He didn’t have to learn German, which was compulsory from the age of 13, as he left to become a carpenter at that age. He bears no resentment towards the Germans, and even has gone to visit the family of some of the Germans who stayed on Guernsey with them during the war.
“We didn’t look for trouble,” he says with a glint in his eye. “But we didn’t get caught when we took down posters and the like.”
As one of the few survivors from the period Roy will be a guest at the gala dinner to celebrate Guernsey Liberation Day, which Princess Anne will attend. As I meet him, he is selecting his dinner choice – smoked salmon and beef Wellington as I recall.
Food was in scarce supply during the occupation, as anyone who has watched or read the Guernsey Literary and Potato Peel Society will know. However, the greatest shortages came from July 1944, as Guernsey was by-passed during the D-Day Landings. An interesting documentary in the museum, which is littered with war memorabilia, tells of the period of the occupation. Sadly, many starved to death in the final eleven months leading up to liberation on 9 May 1945.
Dining in Luxury
The sun has taken its rightful place once more by the time we leave the museum, where I have a slice of the local fruit cake gache, which I believe will be the dessert for the gala dinner.
I head back to the west coast to spend the rest of the day beachcombing, scrambling up and down rocks, and staring mindfully into the sunset.
We return to our hotel to freshen up and then head back out to La Reunion, a wonderful seafood restaurant on the Cobo Coast Road, where I enjoy some excellent salmon tartare followed by a brilliant sea bass served with clams and Guernsey new potatoes. It is a wonderful feast. However, the best is saved to last as the sun slides into the channel for the most beautiful sunset – the perfect way to round off my perfect short break to Guernsey.
Ferry to Guernsey From UK
Brittany Ferries (now incorporating Condor Ferries) runs Poole to Guernsey ferries, as well as ferries from Portsmouth to Guernsey . You can also fly to Guernsey St Peter Port.
For our short break to Guernsey We took the fast boat from Poole on the way out (approximately 3 hours), returning to Portsmouth via the slower ferry (approximately 7.5 hours). These were very different but equally relaxing experiences.
On the way out we had a regular seat at the front of the ship which allowed us to enjoy the views, whereas on the longer trip we enjoyed an excellent day cabin, ideal for an early start – and access to the Club Class lounge at the front of the ship, which gave you a captain’s view of the journey. We also enjoyed the excellent breakfast and lunch. In truth it was more like a mini-cruise (including duty free) than a ferry ride, during most of which we sat outside and enjoyed the sun and the beautiful journey into Portsmouth.
Flights to Guernsey
Aurigny have flights to Guernsey Airport, but that would mean you miss all the fun of the ferry.
Short Break to Guernsey Channel Islands
If you are planning your Guernsey holidays, or looking for Guernsey mini breaks then go to the Visit Guernsey website, which is full of ideas on how to make your short break to Guernsey more rewarding.
Accommodation in Guernsey
If you are looking for hotels in Guernsey, you can also go to the Visit Guernsey website, which has a wide range of options for short breaks to Guernsey Channel Islands from camping to hotels, including special deals.
Where Is Guernsey?
Guernsey is just 30 miles off the coast of Normandy, nestled in the other Channel Islands of Sark, Alderney and Jersey.
