Venice is so much more than just San Marco and the Grand Canal. As a local who has spent years navigating the waters of our magnificent lagoon, I can tell you that some of Venice’s most authentic and magical experiences await on its lesser-known islands. While tourists flock to the Italian cities, Venetians know that the true heart of our city beats quietly across the waters.
The Venetian Lagoon
The Venetian Lagoon is a complex ecosystem spanning roughly 550 square kilometers with more than 100 islands. While most visitors never venture beyond the main island, those who do are rewarded with glimpses of Venetian life untouched by mass tourism.
The vaporetto system that we locals use daily can transport you to these hidden gems, usually with far fewer passengers than the routes serving the main attractions. As you pull away from the bustling center, you’ll notice the pace slowing, the crowds thinning, and a different Venice emerging before your eyes.
Burano
Burano might be the most photographed of our “minor” islands, but it remains a living community. Unlike the souvenir shops of San Marco, Burano’s vibrant houses tell stories of actual Venetian families. The rainbow of colors wasn’t created for Instagram, it evolved from a practical tradition of fishermen painting their homes in distinctive hues to find their way home through the fog.
While visitors come for the colorful photo opportunities, I recommend staying until late afternoon when day-trippers leave. That’s when you can hear local dialect echoing through the streets, smell authentic fritto misto being prepared, and perhaps witness elderly women practicing the intricate lace-making that made this island famous.
La Pescaria, our local seafood restaurant, serves some of the freshest fish you’ll find anywhere in Venice, caught that morning and on your plate by lunch.
Mazzorbo
Connected to Burano by a wooden footbridge, Mazzorbo offers a glimpse of what Venice was before tourism. With fewer than 350 residents, this peaceful island features carefully tended gardens, a 14th-century church bell tower, and perhaps most surprisingly, a vineyard.
Venissa Estate has revived the native Dorona grape, once favored by Venetian doges but nearly lost during the 1966 floods. Their small-batch wines can only be tasted here, and their Michelin-starred restaurant showcases ingredients grown on the estate or sourced from the lagoon.
As a local tip: walk along the island’s outer path at sunset for uninterrupted views across the lagoon waters that turn golden as the sun dips below the horizon.
San Francesco del Deserto
If you seek a complete escape from the noise of modern life, this tiny island monastery offers profound tranquility. Founded in the 13th century when St. Francis of Assisi allegedly stopped here, it’s now home to a small community of Franciscan friars who welcome respectful visitors.
You’ll need to call ahead to arrange a visit, but the effort is rewarded with peaceful gardens, ancient cypress trees, and a sense of timelessness that’s increasingly rare in our fast-paced world.
Sant’Erasmo
While most visitors never hear of Sant’Erasmo, it’s vital to Venetian cuisine. This large, sparsely populated island supplies much of the produce sold at the Rialto Market. Its fertile soil enriched by centuries of lagoon sediment produces distinctive vegetables like the prized violet artichokes that appear briefly each spring.
Rent a bicycle to explore its rural landscape, stopping at small farms where you might be able to purchase produce directly. The island’s single vineyard, Orto di Venezia, produces exceptional wines from soil that carries subtle hints of the sea.
My favorite spot is the medieval Torre Massimiliana fort at the island’s eastern tip climb up for spectacular views across to Burano and Torcello.
Torcello
Before Venice proper existed, Torcello was a thriving settlement. Now largely abandoned except for a handful of residents, its peaceful fields and ancient buildings tell the story of our city’s origins.
The Cathedral of Santa Maria Assunta houses breathtaking Byzantine mosaics dating from the 11th century, older than anything in St. Mark’s Basilica, and often viewed in blissful solitude rather than in a crowd. The “Throne of Attila” (actually an ancient stone chair of unknown origin) sits outside, silently witnessing the passing centuries.
Locanda Cipriani, opened by Giuseppe Cipriani in 1935, has hosted everyone from Ernest Hemingway to Queen Elizabeth II. Their seasonal risotto and garden-fresh vegetables are worth the journey alone.
San Lazzaro degli Armeni
This small island has been home to an Armenian monastery since 1717, when the Republic of Venice granted it to Armenian monks fleeing persecution. Their library contains over 170,000 volumes, including rare manuscripts and the first book ever printed in Armenian.
Lord Byron studied Armenian here in the early 19th century, and visitors today can tour the monastery, its print shop (still active), and beautiful gardens with monks who share their heritage with genuine passion. The rose petal jam made by the monks makes for a unique souvenir with a story.
How to Explore These Islands
To experience these islands properly, I recommend dedicating at least one full day, or better yet, several half-days, to exploring beyond the main city. The vaporetto line 12 connects many of the northern islands, while others require special water taxis or private arrangements.
Consider staying overnight on Burano or Mazzorbo if you truly want to experience island life after the day-trippers leave. The mornings, when deliveries arrive and locals go about their routines, offer an authentic glimpse of how life functions in our unique archipelago.
Why These Islands Matter
These islands aren’t just quiet alternatives to crowded attractions, they’re essential pieces of Venice’s story. Each represents a different aspect of our relationship with the lagoon, from fishing to farming, spirituality to artisanship.
By visiting thoughtfully, you help preserve these communities. Your euros spent in family businesses rather than international chains support the continuation of traditional ways of life that are increasingly threatened.
More importantly, you’ll experience the Venice that we locals love, not just the Venice that exists in postcards. You’ll understand why, despite flooding and overtourism, we remain deeply attached to this fragile place where land and water have danced together for centuries.
