Cyclable, stylish and rich in culinary flair, Copenhagen is a city that makes short breaks feel satisfyingly full. Maria Boyle spends 72 hours in Copenhagen and grazes her way around world-class bakeries, shops emerging Danish designers and glides down canals on electric-powered boats.
72 Hours in Copenhagen: Stay
We booked three nights at Coco Hotel, a boutique bolthole in Vesterbro that feels more Parisian guesthouse than Nordic minimalism. With leafy courtyards, curated interiors and a laid-back charm, it’s a stylish base within easy reach of everything. Rooms have en suite showers and are comfortable. The hotel’s buzzing bar and café is ideal for a morning espresso or a late-night spritz — and its location makes it easy to explore both the cool streets surrounding the hotel and Copenhagen’s main sights. Central Station, Tivoli Gardens and the Meatpacking District are all within a 10-minute stroll.
72 Hours in Copenhagen Day 1: Street food, cycling and a sustainable supper
First stop was Torvehallerne, a covered food market just north of the city centre. It offers everything from fresh produce to olive oils, natural wine and chocolate, along with a tempting mix of food bars serving dishes from around the world. While the open sandwiches were enticing, Hija de Sanchez, is where the locals frequent given its known for serving some of the best tacos in the city, all expertly created by former Noma chef Rosio Sanchez.
Suitably replenished, we did as the Danes do and hopped on two wheels for a three-hour bike tour of the city with Get Your Guide. We took in famous sights including the Little Mermaid, Christiansborg Palace and Nyhavn (a tourist hot spot, tick off the list, but don’t hang around as restaurant and bars are overpriced).
Cycling around the city felt incredibly safe — we saw everyone from schoolchildren to suited politicians gliding along the dedicated bike lanes and car-free roads. Apparently, even the Queen cycles here. Pedal power reigns supreme.
For dinner, we headed to the redeveloped Carlsberg City district and booked a table at Beyla, a cosy spot known for its plant-based cuisine. The menu is organic, vegan and gluten-free, but here, flavour takes centre stage. We went all in with the tasting menu and wine pairing, featuring dishes like confit leeks with hazelnut pralina, Gochujang-glazed mushrooms, and a truffle and pine nut risotto. Our favourite was the mushroom dish; the waiter told us they are grown on the restaurant’s own farm just 15 minutes away and delivered fresh each day by bike. How very Copenhagen.
Day 2: Bakeries, neighbourhoods and natural wine
We started the day at Tír Bakery, just 10 minutes’ walk from the hotel. Founded by former Noma baker Louise Bannon, this corner spot is frequented by locals and in-the-know visitors. Everything is organic and made with freshly stoneground grains. The cardamom buns, paired with a filter coffee, make for the perfect Danish breakfast — just be sure to arrive before 11am as they sell out.
Next stop: the Nørrebro district, Copenhagen’s most culturally diverse area. The vibe is youthful and unpolished in the best way — where tattoo studios sit alongside vegan cafés, and art collectives share walls with vintage record shops. The area around Assistens Cemetery — where Hans Christian Andersen is buried — is particularly hip.
Tucked within Nørrebro is Jægersborggade, one of the city’s most interesting shopping streets. Once gritty, it’s now home to ceramics studios, artisan bakeries, vintage boutiques and natural wine bars. At its heart is Paesano, a relaxed, stylish restaurant that blends Italian roots with Copenhagen flair. With exposed brick interiors and a menu built around simplicity and regional dishes from the chef’s hometown, it is the perfect spot for a long, lazy lunch. I enjoyed homemade pasta served with ragù, while my daughter’s deconstructed parmigiana di melanzane melted in her mouth.
The afternoon was spent browsing vintage shops, admiring ceramics from local makers, and soaking up Copenhagen’s café culture.
We nearly skipped dinner at Bæst — “We can get Italian at home,” my daughter said—but we’re so glad we didn’t. This organic gem in Nørrebro boasts impressive culinary credentials: it has its own dairy, where they craft mozzarella and burrata, and an in-house charcuterie operation producing sausages and cured meats. The Italian-inspired menu is enticing, but our waiter recommended the tasting menu, which included the best wood-fired pizza we’ve had outside of Italy. With its relaxed yet polished atmosphere, it’s the kind of place locals bring visitors. Be sure to book ahead—it’s well worth it.
Day 3: Pastries, boats and design icons
We kicked off the final day and booked a two-hour Danish pastry tour with Get your Guide, which took us to five bakeries, including Reinh van Hauen — Copenhagen’s oldest family-run bakery — and Hart Bageri, where yet another Noma alumnus has elevated Danish baking to cult status. We arrived hungry and left happy, walking between stops and learning the stories behind the flaky, buttery creations.
Next, we swapped pavements for water with a GoBoat Cruise— a one-hour guided tour of the city’s waterways. Our captain navigated us past houseboats, striking modern buildings like the Opera House, Paper Island, and waterside cafés. GoBoat’s fleet is fully electric, offering a relaxing and sustainable way to explore the city from the water.
We returned to Vesterbro for lunch in BaneGaarden, a former railway yard turned eco-village. Quirky, creative and refreshingly local, this off-the-radar gem houses a collection of repurposed buildings with restaurants, food stalls and a greenhouse dining space. Craft beers, cocktails and wines are on offer — it’s a laid-back spot that feels like a secret, even in the middle of the city.
As many shops close on Sundays, we visited the newly renovated Design Museum. Housed in an elegant historic building, its beautifully curated collections span everything from mid-century Danish chairs to contemporary ceramics. It’s manageable in size, thoughtfully presented and fascinating, especially if you are interested in design.
Our next stop was Tivoli Gardens. Opened in 1843, it’s one of the world’s oldest theme parks and still one of the prettiest. With ornate pavilions, landscaped gardens and lovingly preserved rides, it’s easy to imagine the park in its 19th-century heyday — nostalgic, romantic and charming.
Our final gastro moment was dinner at Höst, a modern Nordic restaurant consistently ranked among the most atmospheric places to dine in Copenhagen. Its design-led space — all reclaimed wood, flickering candlelight and artisanal ceramics — captures the coolness of Copenhagen. We devoured its seasonal set menu which was imaginative and built around foraged and locally sourced ingredients. Highlights included a creamy mussel soup infused with thyme, and pinecones pickled in honey for six months — clever cooking that made the meal unforgettable.
Beyond the big sights, it’s in Copenhagen’s laid-back neighbourhoods and hidden corners that the city’s authentic character quietly unfolds. Travel by boat, bike or on foot, to discover the real charm of the city – best savoured slowly, coffee and Danish in hand.
72 Hours in Copenhagen: The Basics
Coco Hotel: two people sharing a double room from 1045 DKK / £119 per night.
British Airways flies from London Heathrow to Copenhagen from £47 each way, including taxes and carrier fees.
Main image: Photo: Abdellah Ihadian https://instagram.com/abdellahihadian
