A silly part of me was hoping to find the Saint-Tropez France my parents had described, even though I knew it was no more. A louche scene of artists and film stars sitting around chain-smoking and playing backgammon, then partying until morning. Perhaps traces of this remain, but these days, on the surface at least, along Rue General Allard and the little back streets, high-end shopping brands strike a rather different tone.
Nevertheless, my first visit did deliver a strong dose of Tropezian excess, if in another guise. I had been invited to explore some of the region’s most exclusive villas; the playtime residences of UHNWI (Ultra High Net Worth Individuals), that elite community who often desire to move invisibly through the world, and whose leisure-time habits follow this pattern.
My host for the trip was St Tropez House, a boutique villa rental agency representing more than 100 properties across the region. They are the go-to people for these extraordinary piles that can rent for breathtaking sums. On their books are several art collectors and so the agency gets its special edge in matching clients with homes that often feature curated artworks of international renown.
As St Tropez House founder Emilia Jedamska explains, “We don’t just offer luxury accommodation, but an immersive, experiential stay shaped by aesthetics and creativity.” Suffice to say, not just anyone with a casual £350,000 for a week’s rental can roll up; interested parties are carefully vetted and discretion is paramount.
Art in Saint-Tropez
One residence taking the display of art to its logical end is Villa Ama, which was designed for that purpose. Situated in Pampelonne Bay, the minimalist design gently funnels guests to the back of the villa which opens to the ubiquitous pool, perfect view and 10,000m² of green expanse meandering down to the sea.
That stroll is impressive enough, but along the way you find striking works, such as Richard Serra sculpture Through, three rust-brown steel slabs lying on a circle of gravel — a moody counterpoint to Ama’s serene minimalist architecture, perhaps. In bright contrast nearby, three stacked boulders from Ugo Rondinone’s Magic Mountain series appear like a witty clash between pop art and geology.
In the villa itself stands perhaps the most mischievous piece, Jeff Koons’ Ballerinas, protected in a glass surround. Koons has always divided opinion and this domestic setting almost adds to the controversy. The two polished steel figures are thrilling to see, if a mite disquieting. Ama is of course a holiday home and features an outdoor cinema, fitness room and seven bedrooms. You live on the spacious terrace, or by the pool, an unbroken sea view ahead, and flowing lawns all around.
Villa Alkmene
Another star in the agency’s collection is Villa Alkmene in the hills of Le Croix-Valmer. This three-storey structure descends from road to beach and is like an art work in itself. Once inside this chic marvel the word “party” immediately entered in my head, an event I would stage in the open-plan living room spilling onto the terrace, with its 12-metre infinity pool and fabulous coastal prospect.
The genius of Alkmene is in its range of compact accommodation; of the six bedrooms, the master suite is a private haven with terrace, fireplace, walk-in closet and roomy living area, while two separate suites are found beneath the pool. There’s a Steinway, sauna and wine cellar. The whole thing sits neatly on the side of a hill and in keeping with such villas, a full butler service makes errands or actually leaving the place optional. You might not want to.
Nikki Beach
The elegant day continued at Nikki Beach restaurant on Pampelonne Beach, maybe Saint-Tropez’s most select coastal stretch. Beneath the pine trees and rope-baskets of this sprawling patio-garden we joined the lunchtime crowd and dined on plates of scallop and lemon risotto, burrata Pugliese, and Mediterranean tuna with wasabi and ponzu sauce. The chilled rose flowed and soft-edged house music from the DJ booth added a suggestive buzz to the setting.
Two villas, Agape and Parasol, offer a more relaxed approach to the luxury holiday with upholstered furniture to flop into and pools and gardens that feel more enclosed. At Agape, my place of repose not far from Ramatuelle village, I could picture family life; games of petanque and table tennis, constant movement between house and pool, movie nights with the big TV. House staffer Alain cooked us tasty cheese omelettes each morning which we ate in the presence of an upturned tin of Campbell’s tomato soup, a head-turning sculpture by Andy Warhol in a corner of the kitchen-reception.
Two minutes’ walk from Pampelonne Beach, Parasol is a newly built gem of earthy chic interiors, exposed beams and an inviting garden where towering pine trees offer picturesque shade. With a cinema room, basketball court and trampoline, it’s another ideal family option. Along with the five luxurious bedrooms, and generous dining area and bar, Parasol is the comeliest of villas.
Villa Louise
Finally to Villa Louise, the crown jewel in the Domaine Louise gated estate in La Croix-Valmer, which is set slightly back from the coast. Being one of six villas, a more social experience is available here, but each residence also has its own pool and enjoys absolute privacy. The colour palette of Louise moves between mocha greys and soft browns and has more muted look, but serious mod-cons too: a private lift, jacuzzi, fitness suite and helipad. In addition to the five en-suite bedrooms are a further six in an adjacent building. A powerhouse of a villa for a larger group.
Whatever strain of “executive stress” the UHNWI must experience in working life, through villa rental agency St Tropez House, quietus is at hand.
