Some cities are so intertwined with literature that to walk their streets is like stepping into a story. Paris is one of them. Writer Maria Boyle and her book-loving daughter Evie spent a weekend in Paris exploring the city’s literary trails and discovered that every corner hides a story worth telling.
For generations, the Left Bank has drawn writers and readers to its cafés, bookshops, bouquinistes and winding streets so it seemed fitting that we stayed in this area. Our base was Hôtel Dame des Arts, a chic, design-led, 109-room hotel, housed in a former Left Bank school, just a short walk from Notre Dame and the Seine. We checked in to a Signature room with large windows overlooking Parisian rooftops and the hotel’s hidden courtyard garden. Thoughtful touches made the room comfortable: beds with crisp cotton bed linen, USB charging points, individual reading lamps, a large TV and desk, mini bar, a tea and Nespresso coffee machine with coffee capsules roasted locally in Paris, and bathrooms cleverly designed and stocked with Diptyque toiletries.
Hôtel Dame des Arts
The hotel has recently introduced a reading-based programme which includes a Reading Hour (4pm-6pm), where guests can relax with a book, explore the great French writers, and exchange books in both English and French for free each afternoon in its plant-filled garden. For those who prefer a different setting, the hotel has pinpointed perfect reading spots on its rooftop terrace with views of the Eiffel Tower and Sacré Coeur, lobby, and even in its sauna!
After freshening up, we decided to follow the hotel’s Literary Map of the neighbourhood. This highlights locations depicted in literature, cafes where the likes of F. Scott Fitzgerald, James Joyce and Ernest Hemingway would have spent time, as well as other relevant landmarks and some of the city’s famous, independent bookshops.
A Literary Tour of Paris
We began with the cafés of Saint-Germain-des-Prés, where literary legends once gathered. First stop was Les Deux Magots, a favourite hangout of Hemingway, Simone de Beauvoir, and James Joyce and the birthplace for The Prix des Deux Magots, a prestigious annual French literary prize, still awarded to this day.
Next was Café de Flore, one of the oldest coffee houses in Paris, between the fifth and sixth arrondissements. The café quickly became a St Germain institution, attracting the likes of Picasso, Trotsky and Sartre and its upstairs rooms still host gatherings of poets.
From Boulevard Saint-Germain, we wandered towards the river, stopping at the many bouquinistes – Paris’s riverside booksellers – with their green boxes brimming with paperbacks, postcards and posters.
We then reached the newly restored Notre Dame Cathedral. Immortalised by Victor Hugo in The Hunchback of Notre Dame, the cathedral remains one of the city’s most dramatic landmarks and its restoration is impressive and a must see.
The map then took us across the Seine, stopping at Shakespeare and Company, the first combined English language bookshop and lending library in Paris, and widely recognised as the most famous independent bookshop in the world. Its legacy is tied to Sylvia Beach, its original owner, who famously published James Joyce’s 1922 novel Ulysses in its complete form. Its publication brought Joyce, Beach, and Shakespeare and Company worldwide fame but almost dragged the bookshop under in the process. Joyce, notoriously, even helped himself to advances from the till!
10,000 steps later, we called it a day and booked our first night’s dinner at Le Rooftop at The Peninsula Hotel. We arrived as the sun was setting and enjoyed cocktails followed by a memorable dinner including Sea Bream Crudo, Chicken Croque-Monsieur with black truffle and aged Comté and our favourite, Lobster roll. This was all topped off with incredible views of the Eiffel Tower sparkling. As we were about to head back to the hotel, the manager suggested we enjoy a digestif in its Le Bar Kléber, located on the ground floor given its history as this is where Henry Kissinger negotiated the historic Paris Peace Accords which ended the Vietnam War in 1973. We were glad we did as we were shown a signed, framed copy of the Agreement as we enjoyed Espresso Martinis.
Bibliothèque Nationale de France
Breakfast at the hotel includes a choice of fresh juices, pastries, charcuterie, fruit and scrambled eggs, all topped off with excellent coffee. We continued exploring the Literary Map and headed north towards the 2nd arrondissement. First stop was the Bibliothèque nationale de France – Richelieu. This is the national library of France and is home to the Royal Library. We did not know what to expect here but were so glad we visited, the highlight being seeing the library’s oval reading room, with soaring glass ceilings and endless rows of desks occupied by students and readers. It’s impressive and a must see.
We then walked along the cobbled streets in Le Marais to the National Archives of France, housed in the Hôtel de Soubise. Its museum offers a fascinating insight into the documents that shaped French history—from royal edicts to letters by writers who helped define the nation. A highlight was seeing one of the original letters Napoleon Bonaparte sent Josephine.
Latin Quarter
Feeling weary, we came across the restaurant Kubri and grabbed the last table for lunch. It was a great find, food was outstanding, our favourite dishes were Hispi Cabbage, Chicken Shawarma, and Lala roasted chicken.
Back in the Latin Quarter and following the Literary Map, we finished our day at the pretty Rue de la Parcheminerie, once home to parchment makers and scribes who formed the backbone of Paris’s book trade. Tucked along the street, we also spotted The Abbey Bookshop. This second-hand bookstore is a treasure trove of over 40,000 English language titles. A paradise for browsers, with piles of novels, non-fiction and travel guides cramming every corner.
For our last night, we booked dinner at the hotel’s cosy Pimpan restaurant which serves contemporary French cuisine with a focus on seasonality and offers a wonderful selection of interesting dishes. On the waiter’s advice, we opted for the tasting menu, and each course was exceptional, matched with equally tasty French wines and impeccable service.
Paris is a city that never ceases to amaze. In just 48 hours, we had uncovered Paris’s literary heart and realised that the greatest page-turner here is not its books but the city itself. We can’t wait to return for the sequel!
Weekend Break in Paris Accommodation
Rooms at Hôtel Dame Des Arts start from £239 / Euros 275 per night for a Classic room including breakfast. For more information visit www.damedesarts.com
Eurostar Weekend Breaks in Paris
Eurostar has London-Paris trains from £39 each way, when booking a return eurostar.com. Check out for Eurostar weekend breaks in Paris France.
