Early this century Mike East went on a holiday to Boracay Philippines. He returns to see how it has changed.
On my previous visit to Boracay in the Philippines, the boat had chugged up close to the brilliantly white beach when I had first visited. We had shouldered our bags up high, waded ashore and walked up to our small hotel on the shore line. It had been a laid-back experience: spicy food, lots of freshly caught fish, cold beer and, after dark, a beachside bar then lying on the beach and gazing up at the tapestry of stars. Beautiful.
I cannot deny the sense of trepidation that came with my second visit. I had heard about the collapse in April 2018. When, given numbers of around 1.7 million tourists in less than a year, including cruise liners, Boracay was sealed off by the national government. Faced with mounting rubbish, a raw sewage crisis and an increasingly deteriorating beach, authorities began an emergency recovery plan that was to last for six months.
Boracay Revisited
Had it worked? How had years of relentless growth changed Boracay? Would I still recognise it? These were the type of questions running through my mind.
The famous White Beach that runs along much of the west side of the island still looks good—a light beige colour. There are notices of very clearly printed rules displayed, such as around the lifeguard stations, to ensure that it continues to be protected. A good sign.
You still take a tuk tuk from Caticlan Airport to the water’s edge and arrive in small ferry boats, though the gangplanks ensure that your feet stay dry.
There are a lot more buildings now, though I saw none higher than five storeys and most less than that. There always was a pathway along White Beach Boracay that connects what are called Stations, different sections of the shore, Stations One (more exclusive), Two (the party zone) and Three (more budget area). It is much busier. I came in the rainy season and during peak times it must be even more so.
White Beach of Boracay
There are a lot of hawkers along it now—who are not aggressive, but can be bothersome, and at times I took to walking among the palm trees in the area where the pathway transitions into sand, for some respite from them. One nice touch is that the local government employs teams that make new beautiful sand castles every day—these decorations even come with the date on them and are popular photo opportunities.
At Station Two on White Beach you can now eat around the world. There is a Greek Taverna, a Latin American restaurant and your fish and chips come with a pot of mushy peas. Indeed, some may even claim that the McDonalds and KFC constitute an improvement.
On the sands themselves there is kitesurfing and windsurfing, whilst on Bulabog Beach there is some surfing. Local paraws (small boats with two outriggers), head out in the afternoon with passengers and skim across the sea. Island tours will take you to the quieter beaches.
There are many resorts on Boracay. Before I came. I booked what I thought was a medium-sized hotel, but it turned out to be a style of Philippine Butlins, though the red blazers have been replaced by yellow polo shirts. Several hundred people trooped into the breakfast buffet in the morning. A great buffet, by the way, with lots of local cuisine. It was in this hotel that I came to see two positives about the new Boracay. There were lots of opportunities for local employment and many middle class Filipinos now had the chance to appreciate one of their most famous holiday destinations.
Holiday in Boracay Revisited Verdict
Would I come again? If I did, I would want to be further afield than White Beach. There are less developed parts of the island, such as Station 0 (Zero), Puka or Diniwid Beaches, places that are quieter and well worth exploring. As Boracay is small, if you get an irresistible craving for moussaka, you can still just hail a tuk tuk and head to Station Two.
What does the future hold for Boracay? Politicians are now talking about building a bridge to neighbouring Caticlan, despite much local hostility to the plan. That will change the island negatively, if it happens. On the widest road in Boracay, two vehicles can pass each other, but there are almost no cars, just minivans, tuktuks, motorbikes and motorbikes with sidecars. Mercifully, many paths and alleyways near the beaches are narrow or pedestrianised. A bridge, disgorging cars onto the island, would cause a gridlocked nightmare.
I hope that the island is able to resist this and that the workers on the small ferries and the tuktuk drivers do not lose their livelihoods. It is vital that Boracay clings on to the considerable charms that remain here.
Flight from Manila to Boracay
International flights arrive at Manila’s Ninoy Aquino Terminal One. For the Manila flight to Boracay, you will be using Terminals 2 and 3. There are frequent shuttle buses that connect these three points, but make sure that you allow a generous amount of time to get through migration and to take the bus (there may be a queue). For speed, you would do better to skip it and taxi between the terminals.
When you arrive at Caticlan Airport, there are guides offering tuk tuk to ferry then tuk tuk to hotel. This is worth doing as you will arrive faster at your accommodation and at a reasonable price.
Hotels in Philippines Boracay
We suggest you use one of the major hotel booking websites, such as Booking.com to reserve accommodation for your holiday in Boracay.
Holiday to Boracay Island Philippines
Before you set off on your holidays to Boracay Philippines we suggest you visit this website which gives plenty of useful information.
