While I’ve been fortunate enough to travel extensively, Italy continues to hold a special place in my heart. Ever since tasting gazpacho (I know it’s Spanish) made with sun-ripened Ischian tomatoes at chef Heinz Beck’s three-Michelin-starred restaurant in Rome (a special 10th wedding anniversary treat), I’d been desperate to visit the island of Ischia that inspired such depth of flavour. So, when the opportunity arose to explore Ischia for myself, I didn’t hesitate – and brought two of my food-loving daughters along to discover what it truly means to holiday like the Italians do.
One local explained, “When Italians take a break, they skip the glitz of Capri and the crowds of the Amalfi Coast, in favour of Ischia.” You can see why. The volcanic island, just an hour’s ferry ride from Naples, has quietly drawn generations of Italian families, lured by its mineral-rich thermal springs, family-run hotels, dramatic coastline and unpretentious charm.
Where to Stay in Ischia Italy
Visitors are spoiled for choice. They can explore Ischia’s colourful towns including Forio, home to Spiaggia di Citara, one of the island’s most beautiful beaches; Ischia Ponte with the famous Castello Aragonese and the picture-perfect Sant Angelo in the south. We chose to venture to the island’s northwestern coast and base ourselves in Lacco Ameno – the smallest town on the island.
We booked into San Montano Resort & Spa, a five-star resort run by the De Siano family since 2009 and shaped by three generations of hospitality on the island. The family’s roots stretch back to their grandfather, Arcangelo, a local pioneer who helped shape Ischia’s development from the 1950s onwards – opening the island’s first modern supermarket and later expanding into hotels in the 1980s. Today, the resort is run by his children and grandchildren, who blend warm southern Italian hospitality, deep local knowledge, and a strong sense of place and tradition.
Best Hotels Ischia : San Montano
San Montano occupies a prime position on the island, just above the town of Lacco Ameno. The resort sits within lush Mediterranean parkland and has panoramic views over the Bay of Naples, Mount Epomeo, and Vesuvius in the distance.
With only 65 guest rooms and suites, the resort offers a sense of space and feels very exclusive. There are 11 outdoor thermal pools using the island’s natural healing warm waters (we had fun trying each one), four drinking and dining spots, plus dedicated wellness and relaxation areas.
Ocean Blue Spa
The resort’s Ocean Blue Spa includes a Finnish sauna, Turkish bath and a menu of signature treatments using Ischia’s natural volcanic mud. I booked a detoxifying Sculpting Body Cleanse –120 minutes of pure indulgence – and hands down the best spa treatment I’ve ever had. It was so good, I immediately booked another for my eldest daughter to try too.
This personal, generous style of hospitality extends throughout the resort – from expert sommeliers and restaurant staff to Antonio, the attentive pool man, every team member proud of their island’s heritage, food, and culture.
Things to Do on Ischia
While we could easily have spent the entire stay poolside, we did venture out. One morning, beach bags in hand, we hopped on the resort’s complimentary shuttle and enjoyed a relaxed few hours at San Montano beach.
Later, we wandered uphill to Villa Arbusto, the private villa of Italian film producer Angelo Rizzoli, who bought it in the 1950s, his home became a meeting place for international celebrities from high society and the world of politics. Now a community-owned museum, the estate offers both sweeping views and fascinating insight into Ischia’s past. Inside, ancient artefacts dating to the 8th century BC sit alongside memorabilia from Rizzoli’s heyday – including photographs of Elizabeth Taylor and Richard Burton, who famously fell in love on Ischia during filming of Cleopatra.
Nestori Boats & Yachts
Another afternoon, we chartered a private half-day boat with Nestori Boats & Yachts to see the island from the sea. Our 35-foot Italian cruiser, with its sunshine yellow sundeck and shaded lounge area, was captained by Ischian-born Giuseppe Puzella. It was a brilliant trip: we swam in hot springs bubbling up from the seabed, stopped to admire the Castello Aragonese from the water, cruised to the neighbouring island of Procida, and its colourful port of La Corricella. Along the way, we passed filming locations from The Talented Mr. Ripley – a treat for my daughter who is a fan of the film – and ended the afternoon at Il Fungo, the mushroom-shaped rock rising from Lacco Ameno’s harbour.
As we chatted, Giuseppe offered his view on why Ischia wins Italian hearts. “Italians are very picky by nature, so if they choose to holiday somewhere, the hotel, food, wine and service all have to be exceptional,” he says. He wasn’t wrong.
Restaurants in Ischia
Italians are famously discerning when it comes to food – so anywhere they holiday tends to have a strong culinary scene.
At San Montano, our days began with a fabulous buffet breakfast – serving the freshest orange juice, warm pastries, fruit, cheeses and hot dishes cooked to order. Lunches were relaxed affairs at Franco’s, the sea-view terrace restaurant that sources ingredients from its own kitchen garden. Think grilled fish, garden salads, pasta, and pizza, paired with a local rosé.
Dinners at La Veranda, the resort’s fine-dining restaurant, were consistently superb. Standout dishes included spaghetto al pomodoro made with mixed cherry tomatoes and basil (a masterclass in simplicity), lobster panzanella with potatoes and Tropea onion, and perfectly grilled Fassona beef fillet with caramelised leek and truffle.
One evening, we ventured into Lacco Ameno and dined at Ristorante O’Pignatello, a family-run trattoria and the hotel’s third dining destination. Traditional Ischian recipes – including an entire menu devoted to rabbit – are on offer. Highlights included scialatielli “Scarpariello”, prawn linguine, and grilled lobster with tomato salad. Just when we thought we were done the manager offered us a small glass of Arancello, a citrus digestif made from organic Ischian orange peel by Distillerie Aragonesi, the island’s first distillery. Softer than limoncello and wonderfully fragrant, it was so good we bought a bottle to take home.
Indaco
For our final night, we dined at Indaco, the Michelin-starred restaurant at the Regina Isabella Hotel. Ischia-born chef Pasquale Palamaro is at the helm of the kitchen and has created a tasting menu that celebrates his island, using local seafood and vegetables and herbs from the hotel’s own garden.
Our tasting journey began when we were greeted by the waiting staff who offered us a pearl served on oyster shell to prepare our palate. Post aperitif and entrees served on the terrace which overlooks the bay, we were served a series of mouthwatering dishes, each one inventive and beautifully plated, matched with some incredible wines. It was a dream evening and a fitting end to a family trip that had exceeded every expectation.
We had fallen for this charming island – a place where mornings begin with espresso overlooking the sea, afternoons melt into long, slow lunches, lazy siestas, and evenings are all about unhurried, delicious dinners – all without fuss and fanfare.
Ischia doesn’t try too to impress and that’s its charm. Its beauty lies in its authenticity – a kind of sun-drenched, salt-licked simplicity Italians have quietly treasured for decades.
So, if you’re looking for somewhere to slow down, reset, and enjoy the kind of holiday Italians dream of – Ischia might just be the perfect secret spot. For now.
Stay
Rooms at San Montano Resort & Spa start from €345/£289 for a comfort garden view room. https://www.sanmontano.com/
Flights to Naples
British Airways flies from London Heathrow to Naples from £47 per person each way, including carrier fees and taxes. To book visit ba.com/naples
Ischia to Naples Ferry
The Ischia Napoli ferry runs regularly and costs approx. €25 each way
