When people ask me about Wales, the country in which I was born, my first response is about the castles. Wales just has the most spectacular castles, all over the country. Then I mention the sheep and singing, which sadly passed me by. It’s only very belatedly I mention the beaches, and this is a pity, because Wales has the most spectacular beaches, vast expanses of golden sand, ideal for holidaymakers. Some of the best beaches are in Tenby Wales.
Tenby’s Four Beaches
Pembrokeshire is particularly blessed having two of the best beaches in the UK, according to Time Out. On my previous visit to this part of south Wales I walked along the Pembrokeshire coast path, only briefly pausing in Tenby, promising to myself to return.
Tenby has four beaches, although as we arrive at low tide, they have merged into one enormous expanse of sand. The North Beach has the impressive Goskar Rock in its centre, while the smaller Castle and Harbour beaches are located adjacent to the town centre, with South Beach further along the coast.
We only have one night to stay at Tenby, at the beautiful Imperial Hotel, which has the most spectacular views down to the beaches. So as soon as we check in, I walk down some steps to find myself very shortly at a large rock in the middle of Castle – or perhaps Harbour – Beach as it is difficult to distinguish at low tide. At high tide all becomes clear and the rock is transformed into a magical island named after Catherine of Alexandria.
St Catherine’s Island
St Catherine’s Island had a small chapel in the 13th century. Now it is privately owned and has a certain notoriety for being the setting for Sherringford, the mental institution in the final episode of the Sherlock series with Benedict Cumberbatch and Martin Freeman.
I meet Andy on the rocks leading up to the fort, which was built in 1870 as one of the Palmerston forts defending the country from potential invasion by the French. Andy is one of three or four people who maintain this beautiful island. You can see much more of him on the BBC iPlayer programme Our Tenby Island.
Inside is an exhibition on pirates around this coast including Captain Morgan. The castle is the ideal setting for ghost stories and surely an escape room. However, it is only accessible for six hours a day due to the tides.
Tenby Castle and City Walls
I pass back from Catherine Island to Castle Beach, and then up to Castle Hill, where there is the old Coast Guard House and the remnants of the 13th century castle. Even in Tenby you have castles. There is also a memorial for Victoria’s Albert.
The walls which surround the city were started in 1245. Perhaps it is slightly ironic that the walls and castles built by the English to keep the Welsh out, are now drawing English tourists to the city of Tenby.
And if it were not for tourists, where would the town be? It’s clear why people come here. The town itself reminds me very much of Cornwall, both in its setting and also the friendliness of the people, although perhaps slightly less overrun with tourists than its twin on the other side of the Bristol Channel. It certainly has a slightly alternative feel to it.
Dinner at the Imperial Hotel
We dine at the hotel, having a drink on its beautiful terrace overlooking the beach as the rock magically transforms into an island, and the one beach divides into four before disappearing completely.
The menu is interesting and has a local slant. My companion tries the Welsh lamb, while I have an excellent Pembrokeshire fish stew. We both have cockle popcorn and crab salad to start. While I settle for some excellent Welsh cheeses for dessert, my companion opts for the apparently delicious chocolate brownie.
Despite a slight delay with the arrival of the main dishes, the service is excellent, and the staff are extremely friendly, happy to talk about why they have moved to Tenby from the Midlands or were born and bred in Pembrokeshire.
A Local Feel
We have another chat with the manager of the Crown just around the corner. Apparently it is one of only three remaining pubs with a wet license in Tenby.
This is a traditional British pub where you can sit and chat with strangers or friends alike. It is part of our culture as much as fish and chips and afternoon tea, which, sadly, is dying, judged by the number of pubs that close each week.
Tenby needs tourism to survive, but it is very much a double-edged sword. Parking is a nightmare, and many of the properties have been turned into second homes, with their owners occasionally viewed in town. But tourism brings in much needed income, especially in September, when Ironman Wales is held here. Apparently the second hardest in the world, the race sees the population of Tenby swell from 10,000 to 100,000, with spectators lining the streets.
The Imperial Hotel Tenby Wales
The Imperial Hotel has recently reopened after an extensive renovation by the Crest Hotels group. Tastefully done the hotel exudes opulence. My second floor suite was large and well-appointed once I had fathomed how to turn on the swish hair dryer. The mini Smeg fridge stocked with cans of sparkling and still water was a nice touch. But the highlight has been here for ever – the amazing view from my bay windows, which I discover the following morning is at its best as the sun rises.
The hotel is situated high on the front above the beach by a well-preserved stretch of the medieval wall near the Five Arches which was the southwest gate to the city.
Tenby Boat Trip
The following morning we have our breakfast before I take a tour around the town, concluding at the small Tenby harbour, which leads onto the beach slowly emerging from its nightly slumber beneath the waves.
I have booked an Island Ranger boat trip which takes me around the islands of Caldey and St Margaret’s and lasts an hour and a quarter. This is well recommended.
Sadly, for me, the puffins have left. According to our guide the revival of the puffin population in recent years has been a great success story. They almost died out due to rats eating their eggs, with the puffins seeking rat-free rocks to nest. Now there are some 10 or so pairs, although they are only here from April to mid-June. However these islands have the largest colony of commorants in Wales, as well as a century of North Atlantic Grey seals basking in the sun.
My all too brief stay in Tenby concluded, I check out of the hotel. This is a wonderful place. We were lucky with the Tenby weather as it can get really windy, but on these September days, the sun was out, and all was fine in the world. Next time people ask you about Wales, just remember the beaches.
Things to Do in Tenby Wales
Apart from walking along Tenby beach and going on a boat trip, there are many things to do in this wonderful medieval town. For more information go to the local tourism website.
Where to Stay in Tenby Wales
There might be a few seaview hotels in Tenby, but none can rival the Imperial Hotel. Recently restored, it is quite spectacular, and has the most amazing terrace ideal for a late afternoon drinking. Check out there offers here.
