As part of his recent visit to Japan, Mike East stayed at two uniquely Japanese types of accommodation. One was the capsule hotel and the other was the ryokan, which he warmly recommends to visitors to Japan.
A stay in a ryokan is one of many ways to immerse yourself in the culture of this fascinating country. Some ryokans certainly aim for the more affluent traveller; however, there are many that cater for those on a more modest budget.
Nishiyama Onsen Keiunkan
The Guinness Book of World Records recognises the Nishiyama Onsen Keiunkan, in the region between Tokyo and Osaka, known as the Japanese Alps, as the oldest hotel in the world. It has been hosting visitors for over 1,300 years; an unimaginable and incredible breadth of history. When it started receiving guests, different Anglo-Saxon kingdoms were struggling for dominance in England and the Vikings had not begun raiding the British Isles; yes, that long ago. And — you guessed it — the Nishiyama Onsen Keiunkan is a ryokan.
Ryokans are often, but not always, older buildings of wood. Inside, expect the floors to be covered in woven rice straw mats, called tatami; expect to sleep on a comfortable futon; and for the room to be sparsely furnished. The more modest ryokans will probably have small rooms, not necessarily with an en-suite bathroom.
The ryokan embodies the Japanese idea of omotenashi, or personalised hospitality. Shoes are normally left in low racks at the entrance and you will likely be offered slippers and a cotton kimono, called a yukata. Ryokans are quiet and relaxed places, where we are expected to also show consideration for other guests by avoiding unnecessary noise.
What is a Ryokan?
The larger ones are likely to have a communal eating area and those in rural areas, will often have attractive gardens. Staff are very friendly and approachable.
Before you book, find out if the ryokan you are considering has an onsen, most do, but it is well-worth specifically choosing one with, so that you can enjoy the traditional Japanese hot bath. They are usually public and bathing is in the nude. Time in the onsen tends to be organised by gender. Though if this idea phases you, in many places that are used to foreigners, you may be able to book a time in the onsen with your group or that one special person. In the ryokan where I stayed, the onsen was so small, it was really only for one person, so there were no issues; if the door was locked, it was taken.
Food is another big attraction of ryokans. If your ryokan does food then it will be a great way to get to know Japanese cuisine. The particular style of gastronomy here is the multi-course meal, or kaiseki. This often focuses on locally-sourced food and regional specialities. Ryocans are well-known for high-quality food and they will have built up a reputation over many years. The range of dishes and the small portions allow you to try many different things.
Daiya Ryokan in Kyoto
I stayed at Daiya Ryokan in Kyoto, which is one of three inns run by Hiroyuki Inada. He explained to me that his idea was to create a ryokan experience in urban Kyoto and so here you will find the tatami mats, the futons, small rooms and your own yukata. Because Kyoto has no hot springs, the small onsen bath was built. I very much enjoyed my stay here, though rather than offer food, the Daiya Ryokan has a kitchen area that guests are free to use. It is a few blocks away from the main railway station and very convenient for public transport.
So, who is a ryokan not a good fit for? If you have mobility issues, then getting up from and back down to the floor will not be for you. If you do not like seafood, have allergies, or are a fussy eater, you may want to avoid the food option. Finally, if you want to party, a ryokan is not the place for it.
However, if you choose the serenity of the ryokan experience, it is very likely to be a memorable point in your stay.
