Two competitors collide against each other and crash into me, so keen are they to return to the fray. As a judge I feel tempted to brandish a yellow card or worse, but instead laugh, such is the infectious spirit of the festival. I am merely collateral damage at the Festa de la Verama in Sitges, an annual festival where teams compete for the title of the best wine stompers in town. The crowd behind me shouts encouragement to friends, family and colleagues, as the wine is squeezed into containers, just like in a game of Jeux sans frontières.
A dozen teams are competing for the crown. I am refereeing one that’s boldly dressed in yellow and destined to come unplaced as the pink team from local musical theatre group Carrusel Casino Prado Suburense emerges victorious. It is total chaos and very noisy as stompers and squeezers constantly swap positions to no apparent rhyme or reason. It’s total chaos and quite brilliant.
Dining at Sitges Port
Nothing could be further removed from my serene arrival in Sitges a couple of days earlier. My flight arrived relatively – for Ryanair in any case – on time at Barcelona airport. The Sitges taxi was awaiting my arrival and transported me to my Hotel Sabàtic Sitges some twenty or so minutes later. Apparently, it takes longer to drive to the centre of Barcelona.
Then, having checked into my hotel, I am transferred towards the port area, where we have the first of many wonderful meals in Sitges.
Right on the Aiguadolç marina Can Laury is one of the most iconic restaurants in Sitges. I enjoy fresh squid, octopus and the local baby clams. These are gathered from the beach and have a slight grittiness from the sand, which I rather like.
I always find that seafood tastes better overlooking the sea, and Can Laury proves no exception, especially when it’s accompanied by the local organic rosé Clos Vidal wine.
Exploring Sitges Old Town on Foot
We have some spare time before our first tour, so we wander around the harbour before meeting our guide Rafa Coronada.
I have never been on a wine tour that starts in the centre of a town, but Malvasia de Sitges is one of the few recorded urban vineyards in the world.
Not that we start in the centre, but at the marina, walking past the first of Sitges’ 18 beaches. Balmins beach is both natural and naturalist, I establish after a brief linguistic confusion, although both are all too apparent. It is the only naturalist beach in town, so there is plenty of scope for British prudism elsewhere.
Founded in 1324 Sitges is the Catalan for silos, as this is the port where grain was stored before being transported overseas. We visit the old part of town and the fragata ‘harbour’ where the Verama festival is to be held. Close to here was the original site of the Hospital of St John the Baptist, founded by the knight Bernat de Fonollar.
In 1909 American millionaire Charles Deering bought the old hospital, so a new one was built on one of the hills leading out of town. Since then, it has been converted into a home for the elderly, with some 100 people fortunate enough to be residents here. The waiting list is long.
Urban Vineyards and Wine Tasting
Rafa takes us to the beautiful chapel in the hospital as well as the small vineyard. Manuel Llopis de Casades left the hospital in trust in 1935, but only on the condition they continue to produce the Malvasia wine for which it is famed.
This sweet wine was once one of the most sought after in the world. Shakespeare refers to it in Richard III, as Malmsey wine, although at the time it probably came from the Canaries.
With time tastes changed, especially for the rich. Champagne burst the bubble in the Malvasia market. The vineyard sends a case each year to Casades’ descendants to prove it is producing sufficient wine not to forfeit its property.
In recent years the vineyard has expanded its range.
In the shade of a tree on a lovely terrace within the complex, Rafa introduces us to a beautiful Blanc subur wine which resembles a Riesling, and then a natural sparkling wine before naturally concluding with the traditional Malvasia de Sitges wine, which this year won a gold medal at the esteemed Concours Mondial de Bruxelles.
It is a beautiful experience, and as far from the image of retirement homes, as you can imagine, there is no foot in the grave here.
One of the properties owned by the hospital is now the restaurant El Pou. After our wine tour, we dine here. A magnificent aubergine dish, tuna tataki, sea bass ceviche and incredibly succulent octopus are presented before us. It is absolutely magnificent. But be warned. You really do have to book well in advance here. We saw several people without reservations turned away.
Sitges Museums and Art
The former hospital building was turned by Deering into a museum with a fine collection of modernist art, including work by El Greco and Picasso. Now called the Maricel Museum, it is part of the Museum of Sitges.
Next to it is Cau Ferrat Museum, founded by artist, Santiago Rusiñol in 1893. The development of Sitges in the twentieth century from sleepy fishing village to tourist destination can largely be traced back to him. He established one of his many homes – and a workshop here, and invited artists to join him. The Luminist School worked and played here, becoming an early day Brat Pack, encouraged by Sitges’ tolerance to partying.
Led by the excellent Suzanna, whose mother hails from Accrington and has the accent to match, we are shown a tiny sculpture of Picasso with his foot in a bucket, showing he has done something wrong, on the outside of the building.
Inside, the collection of artwork is a rival for many a gallery around the world and upstairs is a grand hall, as if we have been transported to a medieval hunting lodge.
This is one of the features of Sitges, everything seems older than it really is, although the head basket outside the museum indicates that not everything in Sitges is modern and rosy.
Allegedly, Deering wanted to buy Cau Ferrat but when he realised it was not for sale he bought the hospital next door. He converted the building across the road into the Maricel Palace, where he held parties and Masonic rituals.
The magnificent building suggests an antiquity which is misleading. Many of the acquisitions were transported here from other parts of northern Spain. The views across the sea are mesmerising.
Local Cuisine and Vermut Traditions
I can fully understand why the bacchanalian adventures of the Luminist School took root in Sitges.
One of the traditions of this area is “fer el vermut” or taking a vermouth along with a small snack with friends prior to lunch. After our visit to the museum, we have a vermut in El Cable, which was founded in 1940. I think they need to redefine a “small snack” in Sitges. The aperitif came with an excellent tuna dish, brilliant patatas bravas, more aubergine and a duck dish which fortunately my pescatarianism forbade me, as I was stuffed.
It was all excellent, but was sufficient for a substantial lunch on its own rather than a pre-lunch lunch as we dubbed it.
After this, we had lunch. La Nansa is a beautiful family run restaurant founded on the principles of slow food, with authenticity, proximity, tradition and a personal touch at its core. Service was impeccable, and both food and wine excellent, although by the end of it I felt as if I was auditioning for the role of Mr Creosote in an upcoming remake of Monty Python’s Meaning of Life.
Historic Sitges and the Americanos Route
Fortunately, Sitges is not just about food and wine. After lunch we go on a much needed walking tour of the Americanos Route.
The Americanos were emigres from the Spanish colonies, who came to Sitges when the Empire collapsed in 1898. They returned from Puerto Rico, Cuba, and the Philippines (so were not strictly Americanos), and brought back with them a love of colonial life, epitomised in their music. Their ill-begotten wealth also allowed a regeneration of the town.
Apparently, there are some 69 buildings of the neo-gothic, art nouveau and eclectic styles still remaining in Sitges,
These properties are magnificent. Many have been converted into hotels where you can stay at very affordable prices. This is one of the attractions of Sitges. It has much of the architecture and splendour of Barcelona, but without the hordes of tourists and exorbitant inflated prices.
Sitges by Night and the Beachfront
Having returned to our hotel to laze by the pool, we wander down back towards the front, discovering it is only a 15-minute walk away.
The sun is setting and the light transfixing. I narrowly avoid stopping at a Chiringuito bar, which purports to be one of the oldest in Spain having been established in 1913. Instead, we head to La Zorra restaurant, which specialises in rice, arroz being the inverse of Zorra.
Although it’s hard to choose one out of so many meals in Sitges, this is my favourite. It is clear they love their food here. Excellent oysters with trout caviar are followed by a refreshing salad, albacore crudo and pumpkin, mussels in a Thai sauce, marinated prawns softy baked, and an aubergine sandwich that was a revelation. Each one was accompanied by a wonderful glass of wine, and equalling its precursor.
I am afraid that after so much hedonistic pleasure, I was not able to join the night life of Sitges, which has developed a reputation as being the LGBTQ capital of Spain. We did wander through the area where tourists gather around bars, and found it far less noisome and troublesome than other parts of Brit-infested Spain.
Verama Festival
Our final day we start by joining in the Festa de la Verama. I’m honoured to be one of the judges. Although I neither understand the rules in Spanish nor Catalan, or if truth be told in my native tongue. No one seems to care. And apart from the aforementioned unintentional body check, the ceremony goes off without incident, but with much celebration and the offering of wine to Sitges’ patron Saint Bartholomew.
Afterwards, I have a quick stomp myself finding the grapes to be most pleasant underfoot. However, I much prefer the glasses of wine at the Wine Tasting Fair we consume afterwards on the terrace area beside the old harbour.
Another part of the ceremony is the crowning of the Hereu and Pubilla of Sitges. These are two youths chosen by vigorous exam to represent the town throughout Catalonia across the year. Their reward is to receive their weight in wine. So, boy and girl take it in turn to sit on the scale and for their counter balance to be filled with bottles of wine, in a scene that reminds me very much of Monty Python’s Holy Grail and the determining of the witch. It is a fair cop.
A Dip in the Sea and Final Impressions
We have a late lunch or early dinner at Pic Nic; time seems immaterial at this stage. Located on the Passeig Marítim, the restaurant has a wonderful location overlooking the sea. The food matches the view, and we have an excellent arroz negro, the black rice version of a seafood paella.
Leaving my companions to their just desserts I don my bathers and brave the waves.
I fight against the strong waves that are drawing surfers just along the beach. It is invigorating. We return to our hotel for a power siesta.
In the evening, we return to Sitges beach and walk along the front to La Fragata where a small band is playing songs from the Americanos period. Part lament, part romance, 100 percent nostalgia.
The waves are now starting to crash in near the mermaid and it reminds me a little of the Malecon in Havana.
The sun is setting once more. The light over the bay is as remarkable as it has been throughout our stay. Sunshine is obligatory in Sitges. The 14th century town walls look resplendent. The band comes to a halt, and our final treat is a glass of spiced rum. The sun reluctantly dips beneath the waters.
Sitges is a wonderful friendly city. The cuisine and wine are spectacular, but more than that, it is rich in culture and tradition and strong sense of community. Everyone seems to know each other here, and everyone welcomes all.
Sitges Weather
There are reputedly 300 days of sun in Sitges each year, but if you wish to avoid the other 65 days we suggest you check here.
Best Restaurants in Sitges
With so many to choose from we suggest you select one of those mentioned above in the article. All are great.
Accommodation in Sitges Spain
We found the Hotel Sabàtic, Sitges, Autograph Collection excellent, especially with its spacious pool area and great views. If you wish to stay in the main drag, Sitges has some beautiful hotels dating back to the Americanos period, including the Hotel Romantic.
Where Is Sitges Spain?
Sitges is just 25 miles south of Barcelona along the coast.
How to Get to Sitges?
You can fly to Barcelona from London Stansted and then take the bus, train or taxi €55 (approx) to Sitges. Mark stayed overnight at Hampton by Hilton at Stansted Airport as the flight was early in the morning, booking with HolidayExtras.com – the market leader in UK airport parking, hotels, lounges and transfers. Last year its customers saved an average of £196 per trip by booking their airport parking in advance. Booking an airport hotel means you can enjoy more holiday with less hassle. Plus with Flextras, if you need to cancel or amend you can without charge. One night’s stay at Hampton by Hilton at Stansted Airport is available for £99.44 based on arrival on Tuesday 6th January 2026. Prices are correct as at 29/10/2025 and are the cheapest available rates for the product specified, therefore availability may be limited at this price.
Sitges Gay Guide
Sitges is a very LGBTQ+ friendly place, we suggest you go to Home – Colors Sitges Link for more information on gay bars in Sitges and what is going on.
