Somerset is one of my favourite counties. There is a relaxed friendliness to the place. The town of Somerton, which used to be the capital of the county in the sixth century and was apparently the capital the whole of Wessex is a case in point.
Somerton
This is a perfect town, well, more village, really, than town. Beautiful stone houses would be the envy of many a Cotswold village. Although this being Somerset, you do not get hordes of tourist busses and American tourists but instead a regular bus service, which goes to Yeovil, Taunton and I believe Bristol. As such, the quintessential Englishness of the place remains.
Historically Somerset is a hidden county. The word refers to the people who used to descend from the hills in the Somerset levels, only for the summer set to disappear each winter. Once more hidden from sight.
White Hart in Somerton
Our destination, The White Hart is in the heart of the old part of Somerton. A 100-year-old wooden white hart stands above its threshold, although the pub was originally called The Bear or The Black Bear.
I am fortunate enough to be staying in the old part of the property which dates back to the 15th century. I scramble up the creaking staircase careful not to bump my shoulder on the ceiling.
My room feels like an attic, although a luxurious one with great views across the Market Square.
Classic FM is playing on the radio as I dump my bags in the corner. A large bed invites me for an early siesta. Instead, I select a shot of espresso from my coffee machine to give me the impetus to explore the town.
Exploring Somerton, Somerset
Across the road lies the beautiful Market Cross. Surely one of the finest examples of its type in the county. A little further is Somerton church, St Michaels & the Angels’, which was founded In the 13th century.
As I approach it through the small yard, it looks very much like any other ancient church in the country. Inside, I am struck by the spectacular roof, full of emblems, heritage and history. But perhaps the most striking feature is the beautiful wooden altar table; apparently one of the finest examples of Jacobean furniture in Somerset.
Myth and History
Not everything about Somerton’s history is so attractive.
It is here that Judge Jeffries condemned seven of the Monmouth rebels to be hanged following the loss of the Battle of Sedgemoor in 1685, the last battle fought on English soil, the site of which I visited on my last visit to Somerset.
Although no doubt steeped in history itself given its antiquity, The White Hart’s main claim is false. The room just along from mine is called King John’s window, as legend has it that the least favourite King of England, was incarcerated here. He was not although he does lie buried in Worcester cathedral, as I discovered on an earlier trip.
In the 60s, The White Hart laid claim to the world record for the longest non-stop game of skittles; it lasted 48 hours. The skittle alley has been converted into the kitchen and restaurant in which I will dine later.
Pubs of Somerton
First, I have the town to explore. Beyond the market cross, church and the splendid ACEArts community arts centre in the old town hall, there is not much of historic value in Somerton, at least from my cursory glance.
What Somerton does have, though, is some excellent pubs.
The Unicorn Inn has the most magnificent fireplace, which was only recently discovered. On a cold winter’s eve, it must be most welcoming. It also, unlike The White Hart, has preserved its skittle alley. Perhaps no world records here, but an opportunity to partake in one of England’s many pub sports.
Much more recent is the Etsome Arms, which was opened in 2017 by Peter and Sharon. One an engineer, the other a teacher, they decided to turn a former delicatessen into a micro pub.
As I child in Portsmouth, Peter had, much like Weatherspoon’s Tim Martin, imagined the ideal pub, which he called the Epsom Arms. Arriving in Somerton and discovering it had an area called Etsome with its Etsome Terrace, he switched the name from Epsom to Etsome.
The Etsome Arms has become the heart of the community, at least from Thursday to Sunday, when it is open. This ensures the beer is fresh, and certainly on the Thursday evening of our visit, the nut porter is excellent.
Along one wall is a mural that Peter and Sharon had created by a local artist. It shows the whole community of the pub – sober, drunk, rich, poor, young and old alike, and a few four legged friends as well.
It is a lovely testament to both Etsome Arms and the town of Somerton, evidence that the pub is still very much the heart of rural life. Bidding adieu to Pete and Sharon, I return to The White Hart where dinner awaits.
Dining at The White Hart
One of the elements of modern British society is the way that the traditional British pub has splintered in separate directions. The emergence of micro pubs, such as the Etsome Arms has been mirrored by the development of gastro pubs.
There is no one standard British pub any longer. The White Hart certainly falls more into the category of gastro pub than traditional British boozer.
The food is excellent. We start with some pollock scampi and crab fritters. This is followed by one of the most succulent pieces of sea bream I’ve had in a in a pub in recent times, while my companion exudes about his spatchcock partridge.
The service matches the food. Charlotte is a manager without comparison. Her energy is simply mesmerising, and I confess to spending most of the evening commenting upon her efficiency to my companion. After a lengthy time discovering the pubs and culture of Somerton, I retire early; the beer and comfort of my room ensuring a peaceful rest.
I wake the following morning, perhaps slightly jaded, but for once I discover the bathroom’s function matches its aesthetics. Shower and bath resurrect my flagging spirit, and I feel refreshed even before I walk downstairs to have breakfast.
Charlotte has handed the baton on to Kelly, as seamlessly as any Olympic relay team. Service matches the evening before, and the food is, if anything better. My smashed avocado breakfast is possibly the best I have had in a pub in the UK, and I am not normally one for excessive superlatives. So, two in one article is worthy of note.
Our brief stay in Somerton was refreshing, rejuvenating and most welcome.
How to Get to Somerton in Somerset
By car, Somerton sits just off the A303, with links to the M5 and M4. Parking in town is straightforward and free. By train, the nearest stations are Castle Cary and Yeovil Pen Mill, both about 10–15 minutes’ drive away. Buses connect to Somerton to major towns in the southwest.
Hotels of Somerton
We really do recommend staying at The White Hart, not only for the great rooms but also the excellent food and incomparable service. It is situated in the heart of town next to the Globe Inn Somerton.