On his travels through the Dordogne Valley, Mark Bibby Jackson takes part in the Février Gourmand programme.
Overtourism is a term that is firmly back on the travel agenda. Many traditional tourism destinations are trying to deter tourists, others are trying to persuade travellers to visit their attractions at less popular times.
In summer the Dordogne Valley can become inundated with tourists, during my February visit the only floods came from the rivers due to the unseasonally heavy rains. The roads, the streets, the accommodation options were empty. One of my hosts almost apologised to inform me that someone else would be staying in her house on my final night. I became shocked when I heard English spoken.
Measures such as Février Gourmand are wonderful examples of how you can combat overtourism by encouraging people to visit the Dordogne Valley off-season in February. The programme allows local and international tourists to experience the region’s cultural and natural attractions, while at the same time – this being France – sampling the great local food and wine.
Gouffre de Proumeyssac
My first experience of Février Gourmand was at the Gouffre de Proumeyssac. It was also the first time I had descended into a cave in a basket while drinking a glass of champagne – an experience I thoroughly recommend to all.
The basket which is in reality more of a cage descends slowly some 50 metres, occasionally revolving so all can enjoy the 360-degree views. Then, one of the staff pops open a glass of bubbly and the fun commences.
The cave was referred to as the ‘devil’s hole’ due to the mist rising from it on cold winter days. Scientists have a disappointingly prosaic explanation for this involving temperature, rather than hell’s fire.
Although the cave was known for centuries and used as a dumping ground for dead animals and occasionally humans, it was only explored in 1907.
Fortunately, all the bones have been removed. What remains is a beautiful Crystal Cathedral due to all the stalagmites and stalactites.
After the champagne descent we experience a light show while eating canapes and enjoying local wine, before returning back to the surface by foot. However, I really recommend the descent in the basket, especially with a glass of champagne.
Château de Biron
My other two experiences both occurred at castles, though they differed considerably.
The first was at Château de Biron which is a glorious medieval castle that dominates the land a few miles away from the bastide town of Monpazier.
Our guided tour takes us through the history of the castle founded in the 12th century, starting with a glass of rosé in the cellars. It was a very interesting tour, especially as we were taken inside the kitchen where the food would have originally been prepared. Also, there were plenty of stops as we wined and dined in various different places around the castle.
Château de Puymartin
The third Février Gourmand tour was at Château de Puymartin. By now I had got into the swing of things so made sure I arrived early and had a quick wander around the 13th century castle before my other guests arrived.
This visit was held at noon and consisted of a brief 30-minute tour followed by a toast. It contrasted greatly with the other two experiences which were quite extraordinary.
That is not to say that Château de Puymartin was not without its appeal. For it has some wonderful tapestries and a very interesting story – that is if you are into ghosts.
During the 16th century, while her husband was off fighting in the religious wars, Thérèse de Saint-Clar took a lover. Unfortunately, her husband Jean returned unexpectedly to find her in bed with her lover. The lover was killed and Thérèse was imprisoned in her room for 15 years. When she eventually died, her body was buried behind the wall. It is claimed her spirit still walks around the castle.
Février Gourmand in the Dordogne Valley
You can discover more about the Février Gourmand programme here. Be warned that all three of my tours were conducted in French, although the food was universal.
More Information about the Dordogne Valley
To discovery the many interesting things to do in the Dordogne Valley off-season, go to the local tourism website.
Mark’s Road-trip through France
Mark travelled through France in February 2026 on his own, taking the ferry from Dover to Calais and then driving through Pas-de-Calais to Chartres, on to the Dordogne Valley, across to Burgundy, and then up through Burgundy back to Calais. He took the DFDS ferry using their excellent priority boarding and premium lounge service.
