On his Southern States road trip Mark Bibby Jackson encounters the two faces of Tennessee in the Smoky Mountains
The sign on Gatlinburg’s main drag announces the Tennessee Trump Superstore is upstairs, next to it is Cupid’s Outlet. I opt for the former. Five minutes later having seen t-shirts and baseball caps supporting MAGA, the second amendment and Charlie Kirk, as well as the unusual Trump duck toys (perhaps someone misheard the chants as Duck Trump?), I question my original choice. I would have felt cleaner emerging from the sex shop.
Thankfully the store is relatively empty, apart from one disgruntled employee, a Latina buying a MAGA baseball cap and a weird travel writer posing next to the US President. The contrast with earlier in the day could not have been more pointed.
Hiking in the Great Smoky Mountains National Park
Then I had awoken in our Smoky Mountains chalet, a short drive from Gatlinburg, to the most spectacular sunrise; the advantage of jet lag.
As the sun emerged from its slumber, I could trace the different waves of mountains appearing. What had previously seemed a relatively flat landscape was being miraculously transformed by daylight into a rolling terrain, with little dimples emerging out of apparent darkness.
Our main reason for coming to the Smoky Mountains was to do some hiking. There are many trails close to Gatlinburg, but this being a sunny weekend and during Spring Break, they would be probably packed with hikers. So, we chose a hike an hour away, hoping to find some seclusion.
The drive along Little River Gorge Road was spectacular as we followed the river. The eight-mile return hike along the Middle Prong Trail to Indian Flats Falls was equally picturesque.
We followed the Lynn Camp Prong river as it meandered its lazy way, saying hello to those that passed us, apart from one small girl who head buried in her father’s sweatshirt was balling her eye’s out.
“She won’t realise it now, but it’s good for her,” said one passing hiker, presumably a compassionate uncle.
In truth the walk was pretty easy. We passed frequent cascades before we eventually reached the waterfall. Boldly I stripped to my bathers while my American friends and startled hikers looked on amazed. It took me just under a nanosecond to realise the foolhardiness of my action. The Titanic sank in warmer waters. Instead, I joined my friends for a picnic on the rocks. Afterwards we retraced our steps, which is when we encountered the man with expert avuncular skills.
Townsend and Company Distilling
Having passed through Gatlinburg the previous day we had concluded the town, Trump stores, sex shops et al had no great alure for us.
Instead, we headed for what had been described as the quieter side of the Smokies. Townsend is a sleepy village that languidly straddles the main road. On one side is Company Distilling, a small Tennessee whiskey distillery and brewery destined to be the first of many we were to stumble upon (and occasionally out of) during our Tennessee road trip.
The distillery is relatively recent, and the brewery even more so. I had a lovely black rye ale (possibly the best beer of our trip) while my friends sampled the Tennessee whiskey, which they expertly declared to be cleaner than a bourbon whiskey, but with nice buttery and cinnamon notes.
However, perhaps the most appealing aspect of Company Distilling is its aspect, spilling down towards the river; the perfect setting for a beer or two, which most definitely hit the spot after our long hike.
Gatlinburg, Tennessee
Gatlinburg is the antithesis of Townsend. Apart from the Trump Store cum sex shop complex, the high street has Ripley’s amusement park, and more wine shops than I had encountered in Burgundy, though quite what the sommeliers of Beaune would think of the various fruit wines, I hesitate to think. “Sacré bleu!” I tried a couple including a chocolate one which tasted a bit like Baileys and helped to reinforce my rising belief that all Americans will be announced diabetic by 2050.
After our brush with Gatlinburg, we retired to our chalet, to resume the hot tub session we had enjoyed the previous evening, while scanning for the numerous brown bears for which the region is noted. Fortunately, or unfortunately depending upon your perspective, we saw no bears, but the views were still spectacular. In fact, the chalet was the perfect place to enjoy the Smokies that is unless you want to stay on the main drag drinking fruit wine, wearing a Maga cap and eating flapjacks (pancakes).
Tennessee Road Trip
The Smokies was the first stop on our Tennessee road trip. We had departed Washington DC at dawn pausing for breakfast and coffee at what my American friends had promised was an ‘absolute must’ on any southern American state road trip: Buc-ees. Outside were more gas pumps than vessels carrying gas along the Strait of Hormuz. Inside people ate brisket in rolls, bought stuff they had no possible need for, and ordered super-super-size soft drinks. Did I mention diabetes earlier?
This was not my first US road trip. I had driven through California and take the bus from Buffalo to Pittsburgh via Cleveland before. But it was my first southern states road trip. I was amazed to see so many Three Crosses of Calvary beside the Interstate highway, normally next to a US flag.
Our final stop was to the Smoky Mountains Knife Works, which is close to Pigeon Forge and Dollywood. It claims to be the largest knife show room in the world. It also has a large selection of guns. As this was my first visit to a gun shop in the US (or anywhere) I saw if I could acquire a gun. Apparently, I needed to be an American citizen to do so. Perhaps, I should have bought the Support the Second Amendment t-shirt in the Trump store.
However, 18-year-olds could legally purchase a firearm. But most worrying was the sight of cuddly toys and toy guns close to the real ones. Give me a child until he is seven and I will show you a card-carrying member of the National Rifle Association.
Museum of Salt and Pepper Shakers
Fortunately, there are far more savoury places to visit in Gatlinburg. Two days earlier we had spotted a sign for the Museum of Salt and Pepper Shakers. As we were leaving Gatlinburg, we entered it not expecting anything. What we received was a thoroughly uplifting experience.
The museum was opened in 2002 by Andrea Ludden, an archaeologist originally from Belgium. After her death the museum was taken over by her daughter, also called Andrea, who was born in Cordoba, Argentina. The museum has 20,000 pairs of salt and pepper shakers. It really is a charming museum with shakers from animals to Star Wars, and Japanese to the Beatles. It is also informative, with panels on the history of salt extraction, pepper growing and the explosion in salt and pepper shakers as a means to revitalise the Japanese economy post-World War II. If ever you wanted to be reminded there is much more to America than is apparent from the road side, then just pop into Andrea’s wonderful museum.
Inside the museum established by a Belgian and carried on by an Argentinian were people talking in Spanish and French (presumably commenting on the quality of the local wine) and English. But isn’t that the message from America, a country founded by immigrants and developed by people from different cultures and faiths. Isn’t that what makes America really great. Sometimes it just needs someone to shake things up and add a little salt and pepper to it for us to realise.
Where to Stay in the Smokey Mountains Tennessee
Mark stayed in a chalet run by Mountain Laurel Chalets, which has a range of accommodation in and around Gatlinburg. The accommodation was spectacular and spacious. We had two bedrooms, each with its own living space, as well as a hot tub and additional terrace area for barbecue. Really recommended, even if the bears didn’t come out to play.
Hiking in the Great Smoky Mountains National Park Gatlinburg
You can find further information on trails from Gatlinburg here.
Holiday Extras
Mark flew from London Heathrow to Washington DC. He parked his car at Heathrow Terminal 5 through Holiday Extras: the market leader in UK airport parking, hotels, lounges, and transfers. In 2025 its customers saved an average of £200 per trip by booking their airport parking in advance. He also stayed overnight at Hilton Hotel at Heathrow Terminal 5.
Booking an airport hotel with parking means you can enjoy more holiday with less hassle – and can actually cost less than booking airport parking alone. One night at the Hilton with 22 days parking is available for £327.65 based on arrival on 18 May. He also arranged access at Club Aspire at Heathrow T5 (available for £50 based on arrival on 18 May). With Flextras, if you need to cancel or amend you can without charge for wither lounge, hotel or parking. For more information and to book, HolidayExtras.com or call 0800 316 5678.
*All costs supplied are the cheapest available rates for the product specified and therefore availability may be limited at this price. Prices are correct as at 30/03/2026.
