On his Southern States road trip Mark Bibby Jackson encounters the two faces of Tennessee in the Smoky Mountains
I awake in our Smoky Mountains chalet, a short drive from Gatlinburg, to the most spectacular sunrise; the advantage of jet lag.
As the sun emerges from its slumber, I can trace the different waves of mountains appearing. What previously seemed a relatively flat landscape is being miraculously transformed into a rolling terrain, with little dimples emerging out of apparent darkness.
Hiking in the Great Smoky Mountains National Park
Our main reason for coming to the Smoky Mountains is to do some hiking. There are many trails close to Gatlinburg, but this being a sunny weekend and during Spring Break, they are most probably packed with hikers. So, we choose a hike an hour away, hoping to find some seclusion.
The drive along Little River Gorge Road is spectacular as we track the river. The eight-mile return hike along the Middle Prong Trail to Indian Flats Falls is equally picturesque.
We follow the Lynn Camp Prong river as it meanders its lazy way, saying hello to those that pass us, apart from one small girl who, head buried in her father’s sweatshirt, is balling her eyes out.
“She won’t realise it now, but it’s good for her,” says one passing hiker, presumably a compassionate uncle.
In truth the walk is pretty easy. We pass frequent cascades before we eventually reach the waterfall. Boldly I strip to my bathers while my American friends and startled hikers look on amazed. It takes me just under a nanosecond to realise the foolhardiness of my action. The Titanic sank in warmer waters. Instead, I join my friends for a picnic on the rocks. Afterwards we retrace our steps, which is when we encounter the man with expert avuncular skills.
Townsend and Company Distilling
Afterwards, we head for what has been described as the quieter side of the Smokies. Townsend is a sleepy village that languidly straddles the main road. On one side is Company Distilling, a small Tennessee whiskey distillery and brewery destined to be the first of many we are to stumble upon (and occasionally out of) during our Tennessee road trip.
The distillery is relatively recent, and the brewery even more so. I have a lovely black rye ale (possibly the best beer of our trip) while my friends sample the Tennessee whiskey, they expertly declare to be cleaner than a bourbon whiskey, but with nice buttery and cinnamon notes.
However, perhaps the most appealing aspect of Company Distilling is its aspect, spilling down towards the river; the perfect setting for a beer or two, which most definitely hit the spot after our long hike.
Gatlinburg, Tennessee
Gatlinburg is the antithesis of Townsend. The high street has Ripley’s amusement park, and more wine shops than I encountered in Burgundy, though quite what the sommeliers of Beaune would think of the various fruit wines, I hesitate to think. “Sacré bleu!” I try a couple including a chocolate one which tastes a bit like Baileys and helps to reinforce my rising belief all Americans will be announced diabetic by 2050.
We retreat to our chalet, to resume the hot tub session we enjoyed the previous evening, while scanning for the numerous brown bears for which the region is noted. Fortunately, or unfortunately depending upon your perspective, we saw no bears, but the views are still spectacular. In fact, the chalet was the perfect place to enjoy the Smokies.
Tennessee Road Trip
The Smokies was the first stop on our Tennessee road trip. We departed Washington DC at dawn pausing for breakfast and coffee at what my American friends had promised was an ‘absolute must’ on any southern American state road trip: Buc-ees. Outside were more gas pumps than vessels carrying gas along the Strait of Hormuz. Inside people ate brisket in rolls, bought stuff they had no possible need for, and ordered super-super-size soft drinks. Did I mention diabetes earlier?
This was not my first US road trip. I had driven through California and take the bus from Buffalo to Pittsburgh via Cleveland before. But it was my first southern states road trip. I was amazed to see so many Three Crosses of Calvary beside the Interstate highway, normally next to a US flag.
Museum of Salt and Pepper Shakers
On our last day we pass through Gatlinburg. Two days earlier we spotted a sign for the Museum of Salt and Pepper Shakers. As we are leaving Gatlinburg, we enter it not expecting anything. It is a thoroughly uplifting experience.
The museum was opened in 2002 by Andrea Ludden, an archaeologist originally from Belgium. After her death the museum was taken over by her daughter, also called Andrea, who was born in Cordoba, Argentina. The museum has 20,000 pairs of salt and pepper shakers. It really is a charming museum with shakers from animals to Star Wars, and Japanese to the Beatles. It is also informative, with panels on the history of salt extraction, pepper growing and the explosion in salt and pepper shakers as a means to revitalise the Japanese economy post-World War II. If ever you wanted to be reminded there is much more to America than is apparent from the road side, then just pop into Andrea’s wonderful museum.
Inside the museum established by a Belgian and carried on by an Argentinian were people talking in Spanish and French (presumably commenting on the quality of the local wine) and English. But isn’t that the message from America, a country founded by immigrants and developed by people from different cultures and faiths. Isn’t that what makes America really great? Sometimes it just needs someone to shake things up and add a little salt and pepper to it for us to realise.
Where to Stay in the Smoky Mountains Tennessee
Mark stayed in a chalet run by Mountain Laurel Chalets, which has a range of accommodation in and around Gatlinburg. The accommodation was spectacular and spacious. We had two bedrooms, each with its own living space, as well as a hot tub and additional terrace area for barbecue. Really recommended, even if the bears didn’t come out to play.
Hiking in the Great Smoky Mountains National Park Gatlinburg
You can find further information on trails from Gatlinburg here.
Holiday Extras
Mark flew from London Heathrow to Washington DC. He parked his car at Heathrow Terminal 5 through Holiday Extras: the market leader in UK airport parking, hotels, lounges, and transfers. In 2025 its customers saved an average of £200 per trip by booking their airport parking in advance. He also stayed overnight at Hilton Hotel at Heathrow Terminal 5.
Booking an airport hotel with parking means you can enjoy more holiday with less hassle – and can actually cost less than booking airport parking alone. One night at the Hilton with 22 days parking is available for £327.65 based on arrival on 18 May. He also arranged access at Club Aspire at Heathrow T5 (available for £50 based on arrival on 18 May). With Flextras, if you need to cancel or amend you can without charge for wither lounge, hotel or parking. For more information and to book, HolidayExtras.com or call 0800 316 5678.
*All costs supplied are the cheapest available rates for the product specified and therefore availability may be limited at this price. Prices are correct as at 30/03/2026.
