Mark Bibby Jackson explores some community tourism in Saint Lucia while staying at Coco Palm Resort Rodney Bay.
The sign on the gate says we are entering the Coal Pit. Elias stops our ATV and we enter inside what he calls ‘Martyrs Mountain’. Reggae music is blasting away from inside. Raddic is waiting to welcome us beside the most spectacular view down to the coast.
The 67-year-old Rastafarian established a small community here 37 years ago, when he tired of “pollution in the city”, he explains. They now number some 11 people, living off-grid, getting their water via a pipe from the local spring and farming their own food and vegetables – they do not eat meat. Raddic has recently introduced some solar panels.
Some Home Truths in the Coal Pit
In the past Raddic used to stage reggae concerts here, but the quality of the road has prevented this. (On the way Elias had to turn his ATV onto off-road mode.) Raddic still welcomes tourists, preparing food and drink for them, and talking about Rastafarian culture.
I ask Raddic to explain more of the latter. It is now the previously reluctant interviewee whose chosen Rasta name means ‘radical’ becomes animated.
There is a real passion in his eyes, as he explains why his people should be repatriated to Ethiopia, and how they should receive reparations for the slave trade that originally brought Africans to Saint Lucia (via the US) to work on the sugar cane plantations, around 300 years ago.
“We want equal rights and justice,” he says, before adding that Rastafarianism is all about “peace and love” with a toothy smile.
As we are leaving, I ask – why the Coal Pit. He explains that when he used to work in the city, he was always smoking so people would call say he was “like a coal pit”.
I wish him good luck. “We will get what we are after,” he responds. “They must pay and we must be repatriated.”
Eastern Exotic ATV Tour – Community Tourism in Saint Lucia
Meeting Raddic is the conclusion of my Eastern Exotic ATV Tours drive. Earlier I had met Elias at his company base in Richfond, a small community in the Mabouya Valley. His company has two tours; the Louvet Off-road Adventure and the Irie Valley Ride, which I have chosen.
The aim of the latter tour is to combine the thrill of riding an ATV while meeting the local community (such as Raddic), the former is more adrenaline-fuelled. Irie, Elias explains is Rasta slang for ‘hi’.
You can either drive your own ATV, or sit on the back as I did and let Elias or one of his drivers do all the work. Either way you are given a safety briefing which concludes with a trial ride around the compound if you elect to drive your own vehicle. If Elias is not confident in your ability to drive the ATV, he will politely suggest you take the back seat, for as he repeats several times to me customer safety is of paramount importance.
Soon we are driving through a large banana plantation, the refreshing wind blowing into my face. I feel energised.
Bananas were introduced to Saint Lucia in the 1920s, and by the 1960s they had replaced sugar as the main crop. In the 80s and 90s Saint Lucia was known as the Banana Capital of the Caribbean, with half the population dependent either directly or indirectly on the crop, explains Elias.
Prior to 2000, all their exports were to the UK, so as Britain turned more towards other markets, Saint Lucian banana growers suffered. Elias points out vast tracts of land which used to be banana plantations and now lie in neglect. Lots of farmers diversified to other crops such as water melon, cantaloupes and cassava.
At one stage we stop at a Kai Platin, a hut where people still create cassava flour in large cauldrons, which were originally used on the sugar plantations, centuries ago. Unfortunately, my tour is on a Sunday so nobody is working here, but Elias shows photos of other groups who had a go at creating the flour.
Our drive continues through the Aux-Lyon community where Elias lives. Everyone seems to know him, and he spends most of his time greeting people. Occasionally kids stand in a line to give us high 5s. Tourists seem most welcome here.
Perhaps this is because Elias only employs local staff, and contributes to local projects, graduations, beach cleans etc. He also donates money to Raddic and others who participate in the tour. “We give back to the community,” he explains.
Coco Palm Resort Rodney Bay
My ATV tour is on the second whole day of my trip to Saint Lucia. I am staying at Coco Palm Resort in Rodney Bay. Locally owned and managed, all the staff are from Saint Lucia. This gives it a family-feel you seldom encounter in all-inclusive resorts where Western managers are parachuted in to create an aura of bland universality. The rooms are arranged around the swimming pool, further enhancing the intimate feel of this boutique resort.
The first night I dine by the solitary open-air restaurant which is also next to the pool. The cool breeze and fans keep create the perfect temperature for the meal. And the food, with a local Creole flavour is excellent, particularly the octopus and the salt fish roti I have for lunch the following day. This standard was to continue throughout my stay.
Although Coco Palm does not have its own beach, it is a short stroll to Rodney Bay Beach. The beach has lovely sand and a local feel, and is totally deserted at 6am, apart from one guy arranging the loungers. In the heat of the day, I shelter in the shade on my hammock by the pool reading my book, returning to the beach at dusk, sunset and a refreshing dip. For me this is the natural rhythm of a Caribbean beach holiday.
Community Tourism in Saint Lucia – Bamboo Rafting on the Roseau River
After three nights at Coco Palm, I check out of the resort where I have become so comfortable to travel to the south of the island. On the way I make a couple of stops.
The first is at Saint Lucia Bamboo Rafting in Roseau. As with Eastern Exotic ATV Tours, this company is community based, employing local staff, and owned by Saint Lucians. While my ATV drive was fast and furious, the bamboo raft ride is slow.
As my guide and pole bearer Stephan says, “it doesn’t matter what state you arrive here you can’t be stressed when you leave”. I thought canal boats were slow; they are like Usain Bolt compared with this.
We drift along the Roseau river towards the sea, passing through the largest banana plantation in Saint Lucia. Stephan explains how farmers used to transport bananas on bamboo rafts along the river, which is the second longest in Saint Lucia.
Along the way we see some egrets as well as blue herons and the ubiquitous moorhen. Then we enter the most magnificent mangrove forest which Stephan says is some 100 years old. The shade makes a pleasant relief from the sun, and I take the opportunity to take over the pole. It is very much like punting but instead of standing at the back of the boat, you stand at the front of the raft. Fortunately, I do not leave the bamboo pole stuck in the mud.
Stephan takes over control of the vessel and steers us safely to Roseau Beach, where you can have lunch if arranged. I stroll along the sandy beach until it is time for us to return upstream, this time in a convoy of rafts tugged by a small boat that is going at the breakneck pace of 2mph.
Saint Lucia Distillers
On the beach I saw a pipeline. Stephan explained that despite its rusty appearance this is how they still deliver molasses from ships from the Dominican Republic and Colombia straight to Saint Lucia Distillers.
A hour or so later after lunch at the magnificent Zoetry Hotel in beautiful Marigot Bay, I find myself at the other end of the pipeline on a tour of the only rum distillery in Saint Lucia.
On this we are given a potted history of both rum making and the distillery, which was founded in 1972, as well as shown its own small sugar cane field.
Saint Lucia Distillers is best known for the Bounty rum you find all over the island as well as the more up-market Chairman’s Reserve, which is its most awarded rum. At the end of the tour, you can try as many rums as you like, from their creams, to the spicy to the high end, making for a very pleasant conclusion to my exploration of local and community tourism in Saint Lucia.
Coco Palm
Mark stayed on a highly recommended all-inclusive deal with Coco Palm Resort, which included three meals per day and all drinks (apart from top end spirits and beer). The food really was excellent and staff were brilliant. Alternatively, you can just stay at the resort on various packages and explore the many bars and restaurants in Rodney Bay. Details here.