I am speeding along at 294kph on a Eurostar train, one of my favourite ways of spending four hours, so smooth and efficient, St Pancras to Amsterdam Central. As the train pulls in, I take in the bright azure sky that beckons me to explore a little further.
The Netherlands as the name suggests is a low-lying country, in fact nearly a quarter of it is under sea level, some of it more than six metres. Why does it not flood? The Dutch have centuries of expertise in keeping the water at bay. Using dykes, dams and most importantly sand dunes, which protect the sea boarders of the country. If fact were it not for these elaborate measures Amsterdam itself would be under water as would Schiphol Airport and most of the environs surrounding the city.
Cruquius Museum
The Cruquius Museum, Haarlemmermeer just west of Amsterdam is a real treat, telling the story of how it played a part in draining a vast lake. Here are the world’s largest steam engine pumps ever built (from the Harvel & Co at the Haley Foundry in Cornwall no less), installed in 1850.
The wheels that drive the pumps take weeks to cast and cool that they placed wooden teeth around the edge so that if one wheel breaks, they can repair it quickly. The whole structure of one of the surviving pumping stations is incredible, looking like the ‘Scrumptious Sweet Company’ from Chitty Chitty Bang Bang; all moving parts and eight pumping arms extending outside the building and grinding, gurgling and most importantly shifting an incredible mass of water every minute. It was in constant use until 1933.
Kunstfort Vijhuizen
Staying with water I called in on the nearby Kunstfort Vijhuizen, part of the Defence Line of Amsterdam, built in the latter half of the 19th century. They were one of 42 such forts encircling Amsterdam to protect the city from invaders, though never used for their original purpose. They now house a variety of projects; a few have been turned into restaurants. They were some of the first buildings in Holland to be constructed in concrete, with two-metre thick walls two metres; they proved a cool sanctuary on the hot day I visited. You’ll find galleries, gin distilleries, start-up businesses, cafés and plenty more besides in these once lost gems of history. I rode a hire bike for some of this exploring which was simple and good value at around €25 a day. It had an assistance motor (and booster button) which made the very few hills I came across a breeze to conquer.
Zandvoort
The resort of Zandvoort, population 17k was once the grand old dame of seaside vacations but it still has much to offer. Three million people visit each year, many to use the expansive flat sandy beach offering miles of golden sand.
The old streets of what was once just a small fishing village bring history to life, you can see the blacksmiths house, old alms houses and grab an excellent lunch at Café Deight. There’s also the very small but perfectly formed Zandvoort Museum, entrance is €11.5 or free if you have Netherlands Museum Pass €75, which gives you access to 400 museums across the country. Here is local history lovingly curated carefully illustrating the locality and its people. There are many personal objects and paintings very thoughtfully displayed and the icing on the cake is a short film projected in the round compiled of old footage and photographs in a truly evocative way, it finishes with an image of Anne Frank on the beach. A reminder that things were not always as peaceful as they are now.
Volendam
Just north of Amsterdam in Volendam I even managed a little trip on a botter or historic shipping boat built in 1916. At one time there were more than 200 of these splendid craft heading out for five-day fishing trips, only a few remain. They have motors now but originally would be powered only by wind and sail. They are run by volunteers and can be seen on festival days and in the summer some trips are available. On the seafront are a collection of old fishermen’s houses and a smattering of restaurants. I ate at the busy and charming Grand Café De Botterwerf, plenty of fish on offer as you’d expect.
Edam
My last stop on this all too short excursion was to Edam, of the cheese fame. A beautiful town it is very walkable. Two parallel canals govern its shape, and the inner section is packed with tiny houses, shops and restaurants. Small flat-bottomed boats can be hired; they used to be for taking cattle to market (but are now fit for humans). Paviljoen Strandbad is a fine eatery with brilliant views across the water, perfect for a cold glass of beer and a splendid lunch. The Edam Museum, entrance €8.50, is split over two sites within sight of each other. The smaller and older one built in 1530 has a truly unique exhibit, a floating cellar floor. You can climb into the small cellar from the old kitchen. Although the ‘room’ is made of wood and is suspended in water. Local legend has it an old sea captain had it build as it reminded him of being on a ship. The real reason is it allows water to rise and fall with the tide and prevent flooding. Ingenious solutions as ever with the Dutch demonstrating their masterly approach to water and how to live with it, or not under it.
