Mark Bibby Jackson concludes his criss-crossing trip from Blackpool to Northumberland and back at The Swan Hotel & Spa in the Lakes.
The Lake District is one of the prettiest parts of England. Many is the time I have hiked through ted he green hills and even occasionally swam in the beautiful clear water. The drive across from Northumberland over the Pennines is most spectacular. However, never before have I spent a couple of days being pampered in a spa at the lakes.
The Swan Hotel & Spa Windermere
Arriving at The Swan, I know I am in for a treat. The setting on the River Leven at the southern end of Lake Windermere next to Newby Bridge is spectacular. This is a place doused in history stretching back to the 17th century when it was a coaching house.
In recent years it has undergone quite a restoration with the addition of the Holte Spa.
Arriving mid-afternoon after a long drive, I decide to relax before dinner in the hotel’s own spa area, which has a sauna and steam room as well as an indoor swimming pool. A few lazy lengths were sufficient to get rid of my car fatigue and prepare myself for dinner.
But first I had to experience my room. I was given the Soma suite which meant I had the most glorious views across the river and down towards the small marina. I would spend much of the next two days using my binoculars to watch the birds as they flitted past my window.
Dining at The River Room
As the sun was out, I had a pint of local bitter beside the river before taking dinner in The River Room.
The Swan has two dining options The River Room and The Swan Inn, although the menus are interchangeable. The former has a vibrant décor and makes for an excellent spot for an up-market meal, or birthday celebration (there were a few during my brief stay).
The food was excellent. I started with the sashimi tuna tostadas which I followed with hake served with a spicy ’nduja mayonnaise. It really was an appetising and filling meal which I rounded off with some local cheeses.
Holte Spa
The main reason for my visit to The Swan was to experience the Holte Spa which is situated on one end of the hotel and is managed by TEMPLESPA. In 2025 it scooped the Best Spa at the Boutique Hotelier Awards.
I started with a ‘Work It Out’ massage, which after more than a week on the road criss-crossing around the north of the country was just what I needed.
After this I was booked in for two hours in the Thermal Suite. This is pampering in its most indulgent. I swapped from indoors to outside, and between sweating in the two Finnish saunas and one steam room, and relaxing in the Jacuzzi and hydrotherapy pool.
One of the great features is the inside and outside combination which mean you can enjoy the experience regardless of the weather, which is good because although the sun shined at the beginning of my pampering session the clouds had rolled in by its conclusion.
The spa also has a Bothy, which is an outdoor retreat recently constructed with local materials and with a log burner and salt lamps ideal for anyone wishing to get away from birthday celebrants with their glasses of prosecco. You can also combine a session in the spa with afternoon tea, which appeared most popular.
Walking in the Lakes
My plan was to follow my spa session with a walk to Lake Windermere along the River Leven and then up to a dam. The receptionist kindly provided me with a map. However, by the time I emerged from the hotel the clouds had started to unburden their load, so I had to shorten my walk barely reaching the banks of Lake Windermere. It did look most beautiful and green.
The weather also put paid to my wild swimming adventures – that and forgetting to bring swimming shoes.
The hotel partners with the Wild Swim Club led by Karen. Her team is one of the UK’s longest-established and safest open-water guides. The swims take place in the Leven. The swim is tailored to the group’s abilities. Needless to say, having got the always helpful reception to cancel my session the rain abated and the sun reappeared. Perhaps I should have taken the plunge.
Fish and Chip Supper in the Swan Inn
Having dined in the restaurant on the first night, I decided to try the Swan Inn on the second.
This time I chose to have a fish supper washed down with a couple of pints of beer.
As a pescatarian I tend to have a lot of fish and chips while travelling the UK and find they vary in quality enormously from the clearly microwaved to the succulent and crisp. Fortunately, the Swan Inn’s fish fell into the second category. Perhaps not quite as special as the hake on the first night, but certainly good quality fare.
The Swan Inn has a similar vibrant design as The River Room, as well as numerous nooks and crannies with beautiful Victorian fireplaces. You can just imagine what frolics have taken place here over the centuries.
I return to my suite to take one final look at the birds before sleeping peacefully.
In the morning I take breakfast in my room, a rare indulgence. Excellent coffee accompanies my avocado on toast with poached eggs.
I make one final sweep of the river with my binoculars. The birds still seem content. Reluctantly I return to my car for the long drive home, my road trip around northern England concluded.
The Swan is a wonderful harmonious mix of the new and the traditional which makes for an excellent break in the Lakes, especially with its luxurious spa. It is the ideal place to stay on the Lakes, regardless of the weather, and to watch the world drift past, before returning to the human race.
The Swan Hotel & Spa Windermere
For more information on The Swan and to book a room, click here.
