Mark Heath travelled both ways through the airport at Maiquetia on the coast of Vargas that serves Caracas, in October 2026. It sustained heavy damage during the 24 June earthquake and the airport was closed for several weeks. It is operating again, but differently to before. This is a quick guide on what to expect.
Before leaving Caracas, I must admit to hearing a stream of discouraging rumours, including that you have to stand in the hot sun until you are called, that the boarding process is in tents and that there is no food or drink. However, having passed through Maiquetia, I can confirm that none of this is true.
In fact, I flew away quite impressed.
Let´s take it step by step. Firstly, you come into the airport on the same road as previously. At the first set of cones and security you want to get into the left-hand lane. Keep an eye out for new construction on the left and at the ramp/speed bump where the sign above the door on the left says International Departures/Salidas Internacionales; that is where you get out.
An attendant told me to cue up on the other side of the road in the wide covered walkway, (i.e. not in the hot sun), where I joined my fellow hopeful travellers. We were called to check-in in batches and it was not a long wait.
The departure area is certainly not a tent. It has metal pillars, plasterboard walls and has air conditioning. In many ways it looks better than the tired check-in area pre-earthquake. There was a small coffee/snack bar and several vending machines.
Even nicer are the migration and customs areas beyond. The service in both areas was brisk and efficient. After this is the waiting area where there is a coffee shop that sells sandwiches, biscuits, etc. as well. No food court as in olden days, but food is available. Again, you wait in air-conditioning.
This all takes part on the landward side of the airport road, away from the runways. You get picked up by buses and, after exiting the former car park, for a brief moment, you are on the road back to Caracas. The bus turns right, you enter the runway, the buses move up to the plane you are due to board. And off you go.
Two pieces of advice for departures:
Firstly, the system works, so you do not need to go excessively early. At Maquetia, it has typically been three hours before flights; it still is.
Secondly, the toilets were well-maintained and clean, though availability is limited and, when I was flying, there were queues, especially outside the female toilets in departures. Make sure you go before you leave for the airport.
A couple of days later, I realised that there had been something completely inconspicuous in its absence. There had been no duty free; I hadn’t noticed it at all in the moment.
For incoming flights much happens in reverse. The bus is waiting on the runway. It takes you through the perimeter gates, briefly on the highway and deposits you at the building for Migration. Previously, the line split Venezuelans and foreigners. This time, we were all in together. Movement through was swift and there seemed to be less strain on the toilet facilities.
There are only two conveyer belts to receive luggage, one of several reasons why this airport will not be back to usual capacity for many months. On the very early morning when I sleepily trudged through, custom agents only required those with hold luggage to put their items through the x-ray machines, so I was able to speedily exit, quicker, in fact than in pre-earthquake days.
Outside, in the pleasant pre-dawn air—even at that hour—there were taxis waiting.
My advice is that if you can pass through with hand luggage only it can save considerable time. The scanning of hold luggage and its slow delivery can add a significant delay to exiting the airport.
There seem to be more flights at inconvenient times. This may be to ease congestion and to spread the administrative processes across more hours than previously.
And finally, if you have the time and want to do things in style, there is the Gran Cacique Hotel immediately next to you. This has Italian and international dining, a coffee shop and, if you stay longer, a gym and a pool.
The ever-fascinating city of Caracas is open again, without lengthy detours through regional airports.