Three Days Out by Train from Seville

Europe
 

The courtyards of Córdoba, the Atlantic waterfront of Cádiz and the sherry taverns of Jerez are all within reach of Seville’s Santa Justa station. Give each city a day and there’s time to see what makes it different.

Seville can fill a long weekend on its own. If you’re planning a longer holiday in Andalusia, Seville also makes a good base for exploring the region by rail. From Santa Justa, fast trains head inland to Córdoba, while services towards the coast stop in Jerez de la Frontera on their way to Cádiz. You can leave your luggage at the hotel and be back in Seville for dinner.

Jerez and Cádiz are on the same line, so it’s tempting to fit both into a day. Give them separate outings if you can. The pleasure of Cádiz is following the waterfront until you feel like stopping. In Jerez, an unhurried lunch is part of finding out what the city does with its sherry.

Which day trip from Seville should you choose?

DestinationGo forPlan your day around
CórdobaArchitecture and courtyard gardensBook a slot at the Mosque-Cathedral. In July and August, visit the Palacio de Viana in the morning, before it closes at 3pm.
CádizSeafood and a walk by the AtlanticStart at the fish market, then follow the seafront to La Caleta. Book Torre Tavira ahead if you want to see the camera obscura.
Jerez de la FronteraSherry and live flamencoBook a morning bodega tour and aim for the 2pm flamenco show at El Pasaje.

 

Córdoba for the courtyards

At Córdoba’s Mosque-Cathedral, the repeating red-and-white arches pull your eye sideways through the building. Walk towards the centre and the ceiling rises abruptly into the cathedral nave. Give yourself enough time to walk the length of the old prayer hall and see how the two spaces meet. If you have a timed ticket, leave some room between your train’s arrival and your visit. The station and the Mosque-Cathedral are at opposite ends of a walk through the city centre.

From the Mosque-Cathedral, the Roman Bridge is a short detour. Cross the Guadalquivir for a look back at the skyline, then return to the old town for lunch. Try salmorejo, the thick, chilled tomato and bread soup that often comes topped with chopped egg and jamón.

Make time for the Palacio de Viana. In July and August, go in the morning, as the palace closes at 3pm. Sundays also have an early closing time, and Mondays are usually closed. Its twelve courtyards show how much a small space can do. A formal entrance court was made to impress arriving guests. Elsewhere, plants, shade and water make it easy to imagine spending an afternoon outdoors even as the streets heat up. The palace gives you a way to see Córdoba’s courtyard tradition outside the annual spring festival, too.

Cádiz for lunch by the Atlantic

From Cádiz station it’s a short walk to Plaza de San Juan de Dios and on into the old town. Head to the Mercado Central in the morning to see what’s on the fish counters. The main market opens from 9am to 3pm, Monday to Saturday. On Sundays, some food stalls in the Rincón Gastronómico still serve lunch. Look for tortillitas de camarones, thin, crisp fritters dotted with tiny shrimp.

From the cathedral, follow Campo del Sur west towards La Caleta. The seafront is exposed, with the Atlantic beside you and the backs of the old town’s buildings on the other side. At La Caleta, small boats sit in the sheltered bay between two fortifications. It’s a good place to pause, especially if you’ve spent the morning among the market stalls and narrow streets.

On a clear day, climb Torre Tavira. Its camera obscura projects a live view of the city, with people moving across squares and traffic passing between the rooftops. Places are limited, so book a timed visit online in advance.

Jerez for a glass of sherry

Start with a bodega tour. Standing among the rows of barrels is a good way to understand the solera system, in which younger wines are gradually blended with older ones. A tasting afterwards makes the differences easier to grasp. Try a dry fino alongside a darker oloroso if both are on offer.

Then take that small bit of knowledge to a tabanco, one of Jerez’s traditional sherry taverns. El Pasaje and Plateros are among those on the city’s official tabanco route. Order a glass with something to eat and see how a fino tastes with salty jamón. El Pasaje lists daily flamenco shows at 2pm, 7.30pm and 9.30pm. The lunchtime show is the easiest to fit into a day trip by train. Book ahead if you’d like a table, especially at weekends.

Planning the journeys

Look for departures from Sevilla Santa Justa. Fast AVE and Avant trains reach Córdoba in about 45 minutes, while a Media Distancia service can take around an hour and a half. Renfe also runs direct regional trains to Cádiz and Jerez. A late service from Jerez can leave at 9.15pm and reach Seville at 10.20pm.