Debbie North forsakes her native Yorkshire to travel around Sri Lanka by wheelchair. She discovers a rich land full of adventure and a few challenges.
When the opportunity to visit Sri Lanka came up, I felt a mix of excitement and anxiety. As a wheelchair user, travelling 9,500 miles to a country I knew little about—beyond its reputation for tea and coastal beauty—was daunting. Just months earlier, I’d spent twelve weeks in a hospital bed, and yet here I was, wheeling through temples, plantations and vibrant markets.
My journey started with a drive from the north of England to Heathrow. A night at the Premier Inn at Terminal 3 offered convenience but reminded me how outdated accessible bathrooms with showers over baths can be. Still, helpful staff and kind strangers lifting my suitcase set a tone that would continue throughout the trip.
I was travelling with the British Guild of Travel Writers – alone, but not for long. At Heathrow, SriLankan Airlines nearly stopped me from boarding due to their policy that disabled passengers must fly with a companion. I quickly named a nearby writer, whom I recognised as my “companion,” and crisis was averted. A tip: solo wheelchair users should confirm airline policies in advance.
The long-haul flight went smoothly. With a night bag for my catheter, a medical passport and a supportive cabin crew, I arrived in Colombo ready for the unknown.
City Lights and Colonial Charm
The trip, organised by Sri Lanka Blue Tours, kicked off at the stylish Jetwing Seven Hotel in Colombo. After lighting a candle as part of a traditional welcome, I settled into my accessible room. Staff brought a plastic chair for the shower, and the rooftop infinity pool at sunrise was nothing short of magical.
From Colombo, we journeyed to Galle, the fortified coastal city echoing with colonial history. The Galle Fort ramparts required effort and a helpful push, but the panoramic views were worth every bump. Lunch at Ropewalk, Sri Lanka’s first dedicated arrack bar, was a standout—ramp access was provided, and the spice-infused cocktail was a tropical dream.
A stroll through cobbled lanes brought me to Stick No Bills, a poster gallery selling retro travel art. Though the entrance had a few steps, staff immediately found a ramp. At Janaka De Silva’s mask-making gallery, I explored the art and meaning behind traditional Sri Lankan masks—each one a burst of culture and storytelling.
At Jetwing Lighthouse, waves crashed below my window while I dozed off each night. Designed by Geoffrey Bawa, the hotel blended grandeur and nature, and while accessibility wasn’t perfect, staff worked hard to meet my needs.
Into the Wild: Yala National Park
Next, we travelled inland to Yala National Park, home to elephants, crocodiles and elusive leopards. Safari vehicles were typically hard to access, but I sat upfront next to the driver, fully immersed in the adventure. We saw monkeys swinging in trees, elephants calmly crossing our path and birds painting the sky with colour.
A slower birdwatching safari revealed painted storks, vibrant kingfishers and Sri Lanka’s junglefowl. The guides were patient and accommodating, adjusting the pace to make it as inclusive as possible.
Staying at Jetwing Yala, a luxurious eco-resort on the park’s edge, felt like true escapism. Though the room lacked accessible facilities of shower seats, staff adapted it thoughtfully and the ambience was unforgettable. Nights were spent under the stars, listening to distant animal calls—a reminder that comfort and wildness can coexist beautifully.
A Coastal Pause: Calamansi Cove Villas
After a few exhilarating days of early starts and dusty safari trails, it was time to slow the pace. My next stop was the serene and secluded Calamansi Cove Villas—a hidden gem along Sri Lanka’s southwestern coast, where relaxation is as much a part of the experience as the view itself.
Tucked away in lush tropical gardens and framed by crashing waves, Calamansi Cove felt like a sanctuary. The resort has an intimate, boutique feel, with just a handful of private villas thoughtfully spaced for privacy and tranquillity. The moment I arrived, I could feel my shoulders drop and my breath deepen. This was the Sri Lankan coastline at its most calming—no rush, no noise, just the sound of the ocean and the rustle of palm leaves overhead.
My accessible villa was conveniently located on the ground floor, with level access throughout. The open-plan design made it easy to navigate, and the staff had already anticipated my needs, offering small but thoughtful touches to make my stay more comfortable. Wide doorways, smooth paths and a gentle slope into the villa made independent movement easy, and the privacy of my own little courtyard added an extra layer of peace.
The grounds themselves were a joy to explore. Meandering garden paths led through thickets of tropical flowers, overhanging vines and the occasional splash of colour from native birds flitting between trees. I found quiet corners to sit and read, sip tea, or simply listen to the rhythm of the waves crashing onto the beach beyond the palms.
There was no itinerary here—just time. Time to breathe. Time to reflect. Time to let the vibrant pace of the trip so far settle into something slower and softer.
Calamansi Cove was a gentle reminder that travel, especially as a wheelchair user, doesn’t always have to be a high-adrenaline adventure. Sometimes, it’s about finding places where nature and comfort hold equal space—and giving yourself permission to rest within them.
Slow Travel in the Highlands
Leaving the coast behind, we ascended into the highlands to Amba Estate, near Ella. This organic farmstay was a peaceful contrast to the safari’s thrill. My room in the old farmhouse was simple but full of character. Though the terrain made access more challenging, the staff’s warmth made it worthwhile.
Amba offers guests a chance to participate in artisanal tea-making and farming. I watched leaves being rolled by hand and tasted the freshest tea I’ve ever had. Meals were communal and made with ingredients grown right on the estate—each dish a showcase of local flavour and love.
One morning, I ventured as far into the tea plantation as my wheels would allow. Surrounded by green hills and birdsong, I was guided to a nearby waterfall. While not every path was accessible, the team always found ways to include me, without rushing or hesitation.
Kindness and Connection
Returning to Colombo for my flight home, I reflected on the journey. From candlelit welcomes to wildlife safaris, and bustling markets to misty mountains, Sri Lanka offered much more than scenic views. It offered connection.
What made this trip truly special wasn’t just the stunning landscapes or vibrant culture—it was the people. From hotel managers to drivers, chefs to artists, every person I met showed a depth of care that went far beyond duty.
Sri Lanka’s infrastructure isn’t perfectly accessible, but kindness fills in many of the gaps. With planning, patience and the right support, exploring this remarkable island is more than possible—it’s transformative.
I’ve only scratched the surface. This may be the end of one journey, but it’s also the beginning of many more to come.
